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I would be much happier if they just admitted that thier system isn't designed to cold crash beyond ~40F in regular ambient temps instead of wasting all of our time having us try things they know won't work.

Yeah I get that but my brewhouse is also an entertaining space for us. I shouldn't have to wrap a bunch of equipment in blankets; I haven't seen breweries doing anything like that. The ambient temps I keep fairly low too. I think they just need to improve the design either with the conical/coil...

Spike and Penguin are not engineering thier products to work together. I've had a ton of issues during cold crash with mine. I've effectively resigned to cold crashing down to 40F. No combinations of glycol temperatures, small temp drop steps, or ambient temperatures has been able to get me...

I have two CF15s that I sanitize right after I'm done cleaning, seal it up, and let it sit until my next brew. Absolutely zero issues doing that so far.

Hopefully my last question before I'm rolling. Since I'm only displaying 4 taps I have a lot of dead space on the screen. Can someone help me find where I can increase the text sizes on the TapList?

Got it figured out. Changed the orientation in the Raspbian display settings. Very new to this, sorry for silly questions

I'm trying to get everything to display vertically so that I can have my screen vertically on my wall. I've tried reinstalling/reconfiguring a few ways choosing different screen orientations but it doesn't seem to make a difference. Is this something I need to change in the Raspbian settings?

Thanks. I assume the default is vertical? I selected "rotate 90d clockwise" thinking it would put me in vertical but loaded horizontal.

Okay I finally got everything installed using your version. I selected the wrong screen orientation. Any tips for rotating it 90 degrees?

Super NOOB question, I have a Pi 4 on the way. Do the instructions on Raspberry Pints website still apply/work for the Buster OS?

Definitely agree about this design flaw. I just pop the chiller coil and it rests at and angle on the TC "rim" and then I pitch my dry hops. I then close it back up and fill it back up with some O2 through the pressure attachment; maybe pull the pressure release purge a few times too

Maybe try very loosely attaching the carb stone and pressurize it? If it's loose enough I imagine the CO2 would leak out around the TC connection and then you can tighten it up to make the seal and it's only CO2 at that point.

Definitely the reason for going with two was to have fun with recipe variations. Here is the full setup. I use a condenser so no hood is needed.

I'm pitching by removing the chilling coil so I'm definitely exposing the brew. But it's quick compared to having it cracked while it fills. I think you're right though; I'll just continue to dial in my process. I brew 22 gallons and split between two fermentors so it sounds like I'll just have...

Any recommendations on best practices to know the liquid level when filling the fermentor? I pump the wort in through the fermentor port with everything sealed (excess pressure leaves the blow off tube) to ensure a sanitary environment. I have the cooling coil installed so I can't look in...

I was having this issue and I found that just cranking really tightly on the band solved it; I was treating it too gingerly. Not sure if that worked for others.

Very cool; didn't even know that existed and now I'm very interested. Are you finding the volume of the 3" brink is large enough to get a healthy amount of slurry?

Wait, so there are evaporator components built into the top stainless area? Did you figure out where they are based on where the heat is radiating?

Exactly. I'm in a spot now where I can afford a few luxuries and I can't stand loading keezers but they do look much nicer. I might hate cleaning them even more. Feels like I'm breaking my rib cage every time.

Thanks! I've been brewing for a while and reading from these forums. I just haven't found a lot of info on this type of set up so I figured I would post. I had the same thoughts about where the cooling stuff was, but was hoping someone else had done this before me so I don't ruin a $1300 piece...