Search results

What you'll get, I don't know. Safety wise, I would want to see a good drop in pH with no signs of mold. Also give it the old smell test.

Reconnect at a higher pressure! If your fridge is around 40, you need to be up around 20-24psi for a while to even get to the 3-3.5 volume range that some consider minimum for trippels. Some commercial trippels even go to 5 volumes, this is why the bottles are so thick. This is vital to mouth...

Depends on the recipe. If there is enough bitterness, it could balance out fine. If your volumes were low, you could be lucky in the fact that your bittering additions added more ibu's than intended. I personally sparge until I reach my target volume. This allows my bittering addition...

I've had one for around a year. Imo, great grade and gauge of SS for the price. Build is sturdy and volume marks are accurate. Valve can be disassembled for cleaning. There is a lip around the bottom that's not ideal, but I've been able to work around it

Has the beer cold conditioned yet? I often find my beers will balance out (become less bitter) as they condition. Perhaps a little time will fix it.

Haven't used it in beer, but all the wine kits I've made come with the equivalent ingredients (chitosan and kielsosol). They are safe as long as the consumer has no shellfish allergies. Now, if you followed the directions for adding the turboclear, it's likely your beer is going to be...

Those gravities are high, but not crazy high. One way to go in your situation is to do a vitality starter with 2 packs. To do this, brew the beer, boil and cool, then add the yeast to 1-2 litres of cooled wort and let it go for 4ish hours with agitation as much as possible (transfer the rest of...

I use a robobrew without the malt pipe as a hybrid biab mash tun (I boil in a separate kettle with my lpg burner). I have had around 83% efficiency doing a 60 minute mash, mashing out and doing 1 batch sparge with 170F water. I've never used cool water for sparging, so can't comment on the...

I prefer to dry hop any time under 1.020 but before fg. Active yeast are the best oxygen protection we have as homebrewers, I highly suggest using their services, especially for a pils. On the flip side, it is possible to loose some aroma from Co2 scrubbing or get a different hop character from...

Definitely interested to hear results, it's similar to those that cold steep roasted grains seperately from the mash and should work as long as you use grains that don't need conversion. I have thought about trying a similar technique for dextrin malts, steeped at 156+ then boiled and added to...

I've always believed shop owners have a vested interest in causing low efficiency with their crush (more grain sold). Not saying they all do it, but this one looks pretty blatent. My efficiency increased by 10% just by getting my own mill (my lhbs brings out the pitch forks if anyone dares to...

Did you make any water adjustments? Do you know what your estimated or actual PH was? Where was the grain milled? Do you know the gap of the mill rollers? What was the total volume of wort in the kettle after boiling and cooling? Are your volume measurements accurate? For what it's worth, I hit...

Thanks, don't know why I didn't think of that. Just finished brewing it up again with a reduction of pale ale malt and addition of 10% weyermann Munich 1 (along with a move to a full volume mash to reduce chance of oxygen ingress during sparge). No noticeable color contribution and the wort...

Dang it I'm trying really hard now not to hit the buy button on Amazon for one of those funnels! Looks handy.

IME the only thing a 60 minute boil would get you is a higher OG and maybe some kettle camelization. Everything that needs to happen during a boil (hot break, sanitation and cold break) will theoretically happen with any length of boil. And don't let anyone scare you about DMS, as long as steam...

Shouldn’t be necessary if you think the hops are having reasonable wort contact. If any difference exists, it would likely be flavor/aroma that is altered, not perceived bitterness. The only way to tell for sure is brewing more beer!

what temp have the bottles been conditioning at? I know us-05 can throw diacetyl at lower temps, not sure if the small amount of fermentation during bottle conditioning could do it. An option would be to warm the bottles to 70ish for a couple day to see if the remaining yeast can clean it up, at...

H How do you know when to transfer to the keg and spund? I have a tilt hydrometer so I can monitor the gravity closely.

I use an anvil brew bucket to ferment, I don’t think spunding is an option unless I keg before primary is over. I Typically ferment at 50-55, then ramp to 60 for a couple of days before legging. I did a closed transfer to a purged keg before dropping to lager temps to avoid oxygen getting sucked...

Stopped using secondary for beer years ago no matter what I add. The only side effect of that change was better beer!