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I have been experimenting with higher sulfate levels around where that picture shows with great results. I think your problem lies elsewhere. I think you are pretty quick to dump a batch. Let the kegs cold condition for a couple weeks before making that decision. Time may be all that's needed...

What was the ppm for chloride and sulfate?(6:1 sounds a bit high). Why 2 packets of US-05 in 2.5 gallons of 1.072 wort? I think one packet would've been more than sufficient. do the beers improve with time in the keg? Or do they stay the same? Get worse? Have you tried different base malts?

I'm going to put on my armor and bring up a dangerous topic. I to had problems brewing German style lagers that tasted like the real deal. I tried everything I could find over countless hours of research. I used every German malt I could get my hands on, decoction mashing, different lager...

Is it the Willkos beer fining (small packet)? If so, I think it might just be an expensive packet of gelatin. Not sure though, as there is no ingredient listing on the site. I wish when I was new to brewing that I had skipped cold side fining. Most of the home brewers I know use only kettle...

What type of fining agent are we talking here? There are many different types. On a side note, are you using kettle finings (Irish miss or whirfloc) during the boil? If not, I would suggest starting there, then moving to cold side fining if you still find you are unhappy with clarity.

I'm a little confused on your provided numbers, but if I'm reading them right, and if the gravity is stable, it's done. My IPA's typically finish between 1.008 and 1.011, so your (I assume) 1.008 is good. Your OG is very low though for an IPA, it's even low for a session ipa or a pale ale. As...

at minimum, your looking at needing the following; Co2 tank- $20ish for a 20oz paintball tank (yes paintball) Co2 paintball tank keg regulator w/ gas line and disconnect- $58 Mini Paintball CO2 Regulator Keg- $75ish for a 2.5 gallon ball lock keg ball lock picnic tap assembly- $10-15 This...

Don't waste your money on posts, all you need is orings, or a new poppet at worst. There are oring kits all over the place for kegs. Don't forget to press the poppet out of the post to replace the small oring on top.

If the fermentations going that strong, it should stop blowing foam in 24-48 hours. As to what caused it, any number of things. The one time I've had an explosive fermentation (launched a bucket lid, 1 cat, 2 dogs and a human to the ceiling) was a porter I've made a lot. The one difference I...

How long was the beer in fermentation before bottling? I've had batches do this because I've rushed to the bottle

That wort looks normal, although maybe a little on the dark side for a NEIPA. What was the grain bill?

I'm sure the heat pad would work, you just need a temp controller to turn the heat pad off and on as needed. I use the inkbird ITC-308. The probe gets placed on the opposite side of the fermenter from the heat wrap, covered with bubble wrap for insulation and held on by duct tape. Then the...

If it is reminiscent of green apple, you've got acetaldehyde. Way more likely to be oxidation/infection than an under-pitch.

Those are lager fermentation temps, You can use literally anything as long as you have some sort of way to heat the fermenter (ferm-wrap with inkbird controller). For lagers, if you're just starting, I would suggest saflager 34/70 dry yeast pitched at 10ish Celsius (2 packs for 5 gallons) and...

It depends what you consider low alcohol tolerance? To get less attenuation you just need to get a low attenuating yeast like WLP002 and use a high temp short duration mash. Just because a yeast is a low attenuator like 002 doesn't mean it has a low alcohol tolerance (5-10% alcohol tolerance...

Vinegar can be acetobacter bacteria. The bacteria converts ethanol to acetic acid (aka vinegar). This bacteria is tough to kill, but I would try a good soak with PBW or oxiclean free, followed by a soak with iodophor on all cold-side equipment. If your fermenter has a spigot, either disassemble...

Brew-in-a-bag is largely an all-grain technique. It consists of mashing the grains at your desired temperature for the determined length of time, then removing the grains allowing them to drain (sometimes a makeshift sparge is employed) and proceeding with boil, cool and pitch as usual. You can...

If you washed the orange well wefore zesting, you could most likey get away without any type of sanitizing. I've never done what you're looking at, but I would stick to either the hops or zest until you know from experience what each will accomplish. If you throw everything you've got at...

My .02 cents, kettle fining and time. That's not to discredit cold crashing and fining along with it, I just enjoy my personal results better when packaging with a good amount of yeast in suspension and letting nature take it's course. I came to this realization by always realizing the last...

Experience, taking good notes and being consistent will make you a human calculator for that in time (based on your taste perception). I'm not sure a computer could do that, as RPh_Guy says, taste is incredibly subjective. The closest thing I can think of to this is water software estimating...