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Yeah. that's what I'm seeing the more I research, too... Have you tried brewing with any of those methods? Results? Yeah... we have our most recent attempt bottled, and it stopped at 1.032. It's still not near the viscosity I'm looking for. I don't think it's JUST an issue of FG, there's...

So it's flaked barley and not roasted, right? Or both? And yea, I'd assume mashing higher for fuller body, but again I wonder if it would matter if you had so many nonfermentables in the grist anyway? With a double mash you'd only be using the thickest runnings, and then doing a long boil...

Edited that in there. I may be missing something obvious here, but I'm just curious if that's really going to matter? I get that higher temps = longer chain sugars from different amylase enzymes, but if your grist is composed of a lot of unfermentable stuff (crystal, chocolate, etc), then would...

Did some searching and couldn't find a thread on this from HBT. I'm trying to create maximum viscosity... something like Huna/Zhukov, Dark Lord, or Ten Fidy. Not just using oats to give a little enhancement of mouthfeel... I'm talking straight up sludge in a glass. I've been researching this...

bumping this thread with some questions... I'm trying to create maximum viscosity... something like Huna/Zhukov, Dark Lord, or Ten Fidy. Not just using oats to give a little enhancement of mouthfeel... I'm talking straight up sludge in a glass. I've been researching this a lot and came...

I'm sure it's feasible. Essentially, you're just running wort through another vessel that holds the hops, and then it is pumped back into the kettle (which then goes back to the vessel, etc etc etc)? Would you do that *IN ADDITION* to a whirlpool/steep addition? Or in place of (for better...

Just wanted to reiterate stuff I've learned that has been immensely helpful in making top-tier IPAs (in case anyone is following, or finds this thread on Google): - Simple grist. Two row or pils base (many 2-row doesnt live up to what we want, Rahr is pretty great though). Light amount (3-5%)...

Thanks guys. Kinda a "duh" moment. We didn't have the plastic ball out of the receiving coupler. Took it out and it works fine

Jaybird, you mention something about "ball check valves". What are those? The little plastic ball that's in the beer out line on the top of the coupler? I only knew of these rubber check valves: https://www.kegworks.com/replacement-rubber-check-valve-for-us-sankey-coupler This may be a...

I just posted the pics to show what the setup was. Obviously the couplers were engaged when trying to transfer (handles down). I tried again beer out to beer out w check valve removed from receiving coupler. Nothing. I even tried taking the spear out of the fermenter keg, and using the racking...

So I'm doing it w the beer out line on top. The beer just isn't moving from the fermenter keg to receiving keg. At all.

Tried it a couple different ways thinking that may have been what I was missing. Didn't have much luck, but I'll try it again this afternoon. Also, when I try to vent the pressure it vents actual beer all over the garage... I'm thinking the hop bag may be clogging the bottom of the spear? Or...

Can anyone help me figure out what's going on with our CO2 transfer? We've recently starting fermenting our hoppy beers in our sanke kegs and trying to CO2 transfer like a commercial brewer would, so that we avoid oxygen pickup. Needless to say we haven't had any success. Here's what we're...

oh, and i was gunna ask... when you guys do your whirlpool additions, do you put the hops directly into the wort? We have a hop spider and just hang a paint strainer bag down in the wort and toss the hops in that (easier to clean up, no clogs from hop matter). Also, I read on bear...

So I tried doing it in the keg, but like an idiot I forgot that I needed to bleed some pressure off, and I left the coupler disengaged, so when I put it back on it sprayed everywhere and the beer was all foamy sludge. Lesson learned. Doing it again now, and I'm just bleeding off a little bit...

You can pitch dregs from other sour beers. It does make a noticeable difference. But some brewers bottle condition with wine yeasts, or different bretts. So the dregs you pour in may not be anything you necessarily wanted. ("The Mad Fermentationist" has a list of some general ones) Also, "sour"...

Sanke equivalent? Me too, man! I love hoppy beers, and it's really frustrating when we make a good one, and then I bottle 2-3 days later, and by the time I bring a few to friends on the weekend it's dropped off and it's just watery.

I see. So, in theory, could you just release some pressure from the keg that's getting filled, by the valve on the coupler, as you go? Should be the same thing right? If I remember gas laws from college, then as the volume increases, the pressure would be as well, so if the pressure in the...

Yep! I usually purge the keg with CO2, put the spear in, seal it up, and then release the pressure from the valve on the coupler. Then hook the CO2 up to the contraption we set up on the carboy, and turn it to like 1-2 psi. Carboy is on top of the ferm chamber, keg down on the floor. it'll...

So I've been trying to do this CO2 xfer method: http://www.homebrewing.com/articles/closed-transfer-system.php and it has been an absolute disaster. I need help! Most of the time what happens is that the beer will flow into the keg for a minute or two, and then for some reason it just...