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I promise to do a complete write up soon! But in the mean time... The controls I made from scratch. There's a PWM board to control temps and that's pretty much it. The rest is just on/off's and lights. You guessed right on the hood. It works fantastic. Not too small at all. The...

kevreh, I applaud your way of thinking! When I built my e-rig over the last few months I originally wanted to do exactly what you are/were thinking about. I had sketched up several methods, including a winch design, a leadscrew with nut design, and even a timing belt design. I was going to...

Very cool! except - did you purposely spell Arc with a "c" here? This type of ark as in Noah's ark is usually with a "k". Not trying to be a smart ass, just wanted to mention it before you order all of your company merchandise :D.

I have a question for those of you who are using lactic acid to adjust your mash pH. I noticed that I had put a 2x multiplier in my calculation on the spreadsheet for its affect on RA/mash pH. For the life of me I can't remember why I put that in there and I don't see anything in my notes. I...

Maybe yours does but I would be surprised. Most if not all spa panel's in that price range are not OCPD's. It really doesn't matter anyway if you've got overcurrent protection in your main panel.

I do not believe that is the same model. Part numbers are close, but the "p" on the end makes a difference. Google both and you will see a big difference in price.

Not the $69 one at Home Depot

Since I know nothing about varistors you would have to explain to me how/why it would work, and then also why it would be better than a single resistor in parallel with the LED that I've already got working.

Fyi the reason for the big difference in price is because the spa panel's gfci disconnect switch is not an over-current protection device (i.e. circuit breaker). But like the others said, you're fine because of the breaker in your main panel.

How long would you guess mine will last?

Well I'm not an electrical guy so I have no idea. But what I do know is that a 7.5 Kohm 8W resistor will draw 32mA @240V and that equates to 7.7 Watts (just under the 8W rating). So I would think with just a few hours a month use it should last a while. But like I said I really don't know for sure.

Tonight I tried a 7.5 kohm 8W resistor wired in parallel with the LED and BINGO! No more light on when the element is unplugged.

Right now I have a key switch to turn off and on the pwm but if I were to do it again I would also use a contactor that switches both 230 legs. This seems best and most logical. However its too late in the game for me to do that. I'll let you know what I end up doing...

I have a 40A switch (rotary cam lock-out) in my panel that cuts power to the entire panel. But there are times when I want the power switched on and also have the elements unplugged. What I do not like is that in this instance the "element on" indicator comes on falsely, due to the ssr leakage...

Well I tried a 160 Kohm 1/2W resistor in parallel with the indicator light and no dice (meaning the light still came on when element was unplugged). I also had a 130 Kohm 1/2W resistor so I tried that and still no luck. Next up is a 7.5 Kohm 8W resistor I found at work which I will try...

Ok after a bit of research this is what I've learned: My Auberin 40A SSR has a leakage current of 3.0 mA (from spec page) My LED indicator light is rated at 1.5 mA (from spec page) So as expected there is enough leakage current from the output of the SSR to turn on the LED - or to put it...