Search results

Starting to assemble the components for a copy of your system. Can you give some sourcing information for the 3000 w 120v water heater element and the inline GFCI. The heater element looks like a foldover, does that mean it is a low density unit? If not, have you experienced any scotching? Neal...

Let me first say that I am a fan of BrewTarget, it is a great tool. In trying to get the most out of it, I am trying to work with the stored Mash section on the bottom of the screen. In playing with it to learn how it works I have created a bunch of test mashes, but now I can't get rid of them...

I gotcha too, but I'm not sure that the wire coming in contact with the hot wort is food safe although the nylon tip may be. Nealm Sent from my iPad using Home Brew

Went to a brew day today and saw a HERMS rig using an all copper counterflow chiller as a HEX coil. The brewer pumped the wort though the center coil and the HLT water though the outer. Went finished mashing he disconnected the HLT and run cold water through to chill the wort. Has this approach...

Can you provide more detail as to how you put the temp sensor in the output of the HERMS. Is the temperature probe food safe? NealM

It would seem from the above posts that the answer to the OP original question is that most people prefer a stirring motor to a recirculating pump. The question is why. Better control, cheaper to implement, easier to implement or none /all of the above?

How about more detail regarding water level control and float valves.

PJ Do I understand correctly that the 50 amp breaker in the spa panel is only used for its GFCI properties and that one is depending on the 30 amp breaker in the main box for over current. As such can the wiring from the box all the way through the control panel then only # 10.

Can someone explain to me if you can't find a GFCI breaker for less than $100 but you can buy a spa panel (complete with box, wiring components and GFCIBreaker) for less than $70 from HD, does this mean the spa panel breaker is a piece of ****e?

Can anyone compare and contrast the use of a PID in manual mode versus a potentiometer controlled solid state variable relay (SSVR) to control the heating element of a BK? As I see it the ssvr's analog control might be easier to tune than the pid's digital feature. I am in the ruminating stage...

Nice build! Can you provide more details on how you mounted the water heater element in your HLT.