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Anyone have any experience using the ma887 refractometer? The range of temperature is up to 176F, but compensation is only to 104F, and SG only goes up to 1.114. User Manual: http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/81CYQsDiz7L.pdf

The big difference between what I was thinking, probably sill-ily, was that instead of pulling from the top liquid level like in the video, I'd pull from the middle of the grain so the pump would stay primed, and hoping the hop sock would act as a grain filter. Tried some experiments with...

I use RIMs but want to be able to easily recirculate the mash at more than 1gpm without using a ton of rice hulls. My MLT happens to have a port about 1/3rd of the way up from the bottom, which is roughly right in the middle of the grain for most brews. It's a tri clamp port - would a sock...

By fully open, is that a full 7 gallons per minute or more like 1.5 gpm ?

To add to the question, full open I think can vary wildly (at least on my own system) depending on hose length and RIMs vs. HERMs. A fully opened 1/2 ball valve on HERMs may be 2gpm but on a much shorter RIMs it could be 6gpm.

One thing Cathy says she tries is to lay the recirc tube over the sparge arm on the blichmann so the wort runs down the sides of the pot, though she says it still causes the issue. I do lay mine on the top like the pic above, I've tried restricting the hose and increasing the flow to get more...

Kettles and Grains ? Brew Loco ? Yeah, that does seem to help, though we still get the digging even at sparge speeds of 1qt/min on ours. Am thinking of getting a flow meter for the consistency and testing of different flows. Amazed that Kal's doesn't cause this, watching his videos he seems...

It's a bit inconsistent - anywhere between 65% and 80%.

Recirculating in the mash with just a tube, similar to Kal's setup, I quickly get a huge divot in the grain where the recirc tube outlet is, almost all the way down to the false bottom (roughly 8 inches). Going to use a pic from Kal's setup - the divot would be in the 7pm position (at the end of...

I had a similar problem this weekend - it was a wheat beer though, and I despise wheat. Especially after this weekend. I have a 5500w RIMs, did protein rest, started ramping. PID had element at 100% and suddenly, scorching (flow rate was at least 2 gpm). Scrapped the batch and did some testing...

I know which ones NOT to get - http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri_Clover_Thermowell_1.5_Inch_x_4_Inch.html That one was too small for the hosehead sensors. Not quite sure exactly which one is the right fit.

Fairly certain it's made of brass, though can't find in the documentation what the internals are made of. This one here may be another choice, looks like it's aluminum: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbine-Digital-Diesel-Fuel-Flow-Meter-Oval-Gear-Flow-Gauge-BSPT-NPT-1-200L-Min-/351669219486

Anyone using a netpune flow meter between their MT and BK (or HLT to MLT) ? Looking at them on ebay for around $20-$25, temperature rating seems to be 149 though based on 1 spec sheet I could find. Wondering if I can get away with it ? Primarily for measuring sparge flow rate and volumes...

4 years late, but i think i know what OP is talking about. Basically I would fill up by BK to what beermsith told me to (e.g. 20 gallons), but by the time it was almost at boiling, I managed to read an extra 0.5 gallons in my sightglass (20.5 gallons). I also fly sparged with cold water though...

I posted this on reddit/homebrewing but wanted to do a gut check. If you have the MLT and BK on one tier with a hose from the diptube>valve of the mlt to the valve>diptube of the BK (basically just a hose connecting them near the base), during first runnings/sparge can you just keep the water...

This may be a silly thought, but if you wanted to keep everything on 1 tier, couldn't you hook up the mlt to the bk via the valves at the bottom and let the water level even out between the mlt and the bk? you'd have to make sure the water level in the mlt was higher than the water level in the...

Aye, exactly. I brewed this weekend, and as long as you have a valve between the water source and RIMs to have a consistent sparge water flow rate through the RIMs, you can just set the heating element to manual mode and keep tweaking until you get to 170 temperature. mine was around 85% at a...

Is that on RIMs or HERMs? I've been using a cycle time of 2 and have to bring my P down to 3-6ish and I to 50-100ish to not over or undershoot on a 5500w RIMs (and it gets really tricky trying to heat up hose water to 170 for sparging at 1qt/min, still haven't figured that one out).

Thanks a ton for this - do you happen to know the keystrokes to shut down? e.g. ctrl+alt+del , ctrl+alt+del? On an un-related note, anyone know of a way to get PID auto tuning on hosehead/strangebrew ?

Thanks! Would love a code, appreciate it