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If you insulate the tubes well, the heat should transfer even in a stainless steel tube. The major issue is laminar flow, that is why a spring is used to introduce turbulence into the heating pipe to help with heat transfer. For the corrosion issue here is a great reference, depends greatly...

When I was testing I used Copper, and I still have one unit. It works fine and would be a good way to go to reduce the cost. You can move the heat tape to stainless tubes later if you want too. If you go with copper you might want to watch for electrolysis if the plan is to mix metals. I...

This is a fun site (look at the thermal section). http://www.infinitepower.org/calc_watts.htm There will be a-lot of loss (additional time, maybe never) if you don't insulate. Using the calculator, I get, with 100% efficiency, 1009 watts will bring the 10 gallons from mash-out temps to a...

The feedback I got, plus talking with a few engineers, I modified the design: 1) Moved the pump inlets to the bottom of the conical, and one above the level of the trub. Sizing inlets to prevent cavitation in the pump, 2) Not shown is the insulation. I will be insulating the pipes and...

Found it.... http://www.franklinbrew.org/members/jmag.html

Here is one reference: http://youtu.be/_l0v5dmHN3k There are concerns when pumping the "boiling" wort through the external calandria. Cavitation will occur if you don't get the flow and pressure right through the pump. I want the tube to fail safe, meaning, if the flow stops, the tube...

The rod is put through the spring and the spring is held in the middle of the tube by the rod as you suggest. If I add two more tubes to the rims setup to be able to bring the wort to a boil in the copper, then I only need one pump, since I can re-direct the flow to mash, boil and cool...

Thanks. Got busy, but plan to get back to this soon. Joel

Thanks!!! I needed this feedback, and missed the pressure difference entirely. Time for a re(more)think. Thanks again.

If you can inject water back into the well (seems to depend on where you live), you could run a clean water loop from the well and dump the hot return back into the well. The thermal gain of the well water will not raise the well temp much. Here is a reference...

I think this is the build. One pump and heater for the rims and copper. I should be able to switch the temp sensors and use one PID for the system. Joel

Here is the link to the design: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/electric-heating-element-rims-eherms-293810/

Hello, I did an e-herms using extreme heating tape wrapped around stainless pipes and am having success. In fact I plan to use the same approach for my heater for my copper to bring the wort to a boil by adding elements. I run the e-herms system on a 110V 15Amp circuits with 50% margin (I...

Here are the calculations.... Roughly: Gallons*(220-Temp_coming_from_mash)/(372*Time)*1000 --> required watts. for 150 degree water from the mash, we get something like--> Gallons --> Time to boil (in minutes) 6 --> 28.22580645 7 --> 32.93010753 8...

As I move to an electric brew kettle, I am going to add two more tubes to this for an external electric Calandria which can bring the wort to a boil, for 5 and 10 gallon batches. I will need to use two separate 110VAC circuits, but I should save on the pump.

Running some numbers, and may move to a external electric Calandria based on the heat tape approach. If I add a parallel stage to the two elements I have for my mash system, I should have about 2400 Watts using 4 tubes. I will run the unit on two dedicated GFI 110 circuits. This would pull...

Thank you. Great idea !!

How big of a batch? Cut in half and get a HLT and Fermenter (need a top from Toledo Metal Spinning or similar).

An update to the design. Any suggestions? 1) The vent at the top allows for control over evaporation rate 2) Provision for re-circulation during the boil to speed things along 3) centrifuge during chilling 4) let the trube settle out 5) divert to the fermenter. Joel

Flipped the connectors.... Think is am going to mount it on a board and wirewrap the unit to the WiFly unit.... might provide 5 volt regulator on board for other devices. Plans: 1) will use analog devices temp sensors, TMP03 initially, but the board will support RTDs without a problem...