Search results

I wouldn't toss leaf hops in loose - I suspect that would lead to a blockage pretty quick. If I were using leaf hops, I'd use the stainless tubes that BREWHA sells for hopping. You can toss the whole thing in the fermenter during dry hopping, instead of hanging it off the side.

I just toss them in loose (pellet hops). I've added as many as 16oz of dry hops this way, and haven't had an issue. You may need to add a little pressure to push the hops through the bottom valve, but it will come free with a little time.

I've been brewing a Berliner Weisse using this method quite frequently (I actually have a batch of it fermenting right now). My recipe/process is shown below. As for the lid - it's likely full of lacto all of the time anyway (until you sanitize it). On every brew that I do, I always throw the...

No, I don't empty it. I'll recirculate a few times throughout the boil, so it homogenizes anything in the lines/conical. My standard IPA has about 14-18oz of hops between the boil & flameout. It can be a bit of a pain to recirculate and it takes a bit of getting used to. You need to start...

Nothing special to clean the pump. I spray it out with a hose after each use, and let it air dry. -I hook it up to the BIAC on brew day, while heating strike water and recirculate the whole time to help mix in my salt additions. -During the boil, I recirculate boiling wort a few times for...

I will say - I purchased that arm based on a recommendation in this thread. It does work, but it's REALLY close to the wall of the conical when you have it in a horizontal position. If you're trying to pull wort at the same level as the racking port, there's a good chance you will be pulling...

I have this racking arm: https://conical-fermenter.com/Racking-Arm-for-400mm-Diameter-Fermenters.html I pull from the bottom of the conical and pump back up through the racking port and use the racking arm to create the whirlpool.

I whirlpool while I'm chilling to speed up the process and equalize the temp throughout the wort.

Not much that I can add for one vs the other. As mentioned, the service from Nathan at BREWHA has been fantastic. I've been brewing on mine for just over a year now and I'm still loving it. Easiest, worry free brew days that I have ever had.

I had the same problem until I started completely disassembling the valve (removing handle and all), and reassembling. The key seemed to be installing the handle last as it allowed the gasket to properly align in the groves.

Curious what everyone else is doing for a mash/sparge process? How do you calculate strike temp? Do you recirculate during the mash? If you recirculate, how do you calculate strike temp? If you don't recirculate during the mash, do you recirculate before you raise the colander? Do you sparge...

If you wanted to go with the valve you mentioned, you could put a 1.5" 90° elbow on the bottom of your conical before adding the valve. Should eliminate the clearance problem.

I wonder if there was another cause..seems odd that it wouldn't drain. I've done some very fine crush, and some fairly coarse crush with the BIAC and have never had an issue with the colander not draining.

What is your mill gap set at?

I wouldn't worry about the trub. This podcast discusses split batches, half with trub and half without, and it basically came back that it didn't make a difference. http://traffic.libsyn.com/basicbrewing/bbr02-23-12trubres.mp3

Happy to see someone with some common sense :mug:

That's right.

1.5" bore on the valve and pressure seems to work. Lots of small breweries use 1.5" butterfly valves on their tanks along with pellet hops. Not sure why this would be any different.

Yes.

My IPA uses 33.5oz of pellet hops in a 10 gallon batch (1.5oz @ 60 min, 16oz at flameout and 16oz dry hop). I've been using butterfly valves and don't have an issue with clogging. Sometimes it's a slow drain, but I haven't had to do anything other than apply a little pressure/work the valve to...