Search results

Have you checked the gravity lately? Mine bubbled the same as the OG climbed, but the yeast started to slow down in the higher alchohol levels. Towards the end it was bubbling around the same amount but couldn't even eat .5 points after a couple of days, so I had to stop adding sugar. Mine...

I'm not entirely sure how what the right pressure is, but I have been using 10 psi. Everything above that seems way too high. Morebeer recommends not oxygenating for the whole transfer, but I guess that depends on how much pressure you use.

Thanks, just did a major upgrade two brews ago. The pressure gauge is recent addition because I went to inline oxygenation. From that picture you can see the inline oxygenation assembly attached to the therminator, which feeds into a quick disconnect, small ball valve, a brass tee, which is...

So what your saying is if I use a starter I shouldn't oxygenate my wort. I think many people would disagree with this. I use starters in all my beers and I still need to oxygenate. Yes, oxygen is needed for the growing stage but yeast pitched from a starter still needs to grow more. Maybe your...

I would disagree. I've had a couple brews where it wouldn't start without more oxygen and the beer turned out great.

My 120 clone has officially reached 20% after 13 days and 22 lbs of sugar (11 gal batch). It slowed down a day or two ago and the gravity is now around 1.030. I'm gonna let it finish and add more sugar later if its too dry to balance the hops and alcohol. Next some dry hopping followed by some...

After 13 days I have reached 20%. Fermentation slowed a day or two ago and I am letting it finish. The gravity right now is 1.030 sg. If it gets to dry I will add some more sugar, but for now I want it to finish so I can dump some trub. Will also start dry hopping soon. I tasted it around 17%...

True enough. Guess I forgot what a Flanders red was. The wild brews book has WYEAST 3763 (Roselare Blend) for its flanders red, but I imagine the WLP655 would be just as good. Good luck!

Unless you go with one of the isolated strains, like WLP675 (Malolactic) or WLP677 (Lactobacillus).

You can use a refractomter for FG but understand that the calculators out their are only giving you an approximation based on a polynomial curve. The reason is alchohol affects the reading and the calculation is compensating for this. You also need to be aware of temperature. While many...

Check the wild brews book and see what it suggests. There are different types of sour ales so it depends on what your going for. 655 has brett, pediocaucus, lactobacillus, as well as some sacharomyces. To me 655 seems best suited to a lambic. If I remember correctly its the lactobacillus and...

Not sure about flame, but I take mine right from the stove to an ice bath all the time. Thats what there made for. Not sure on brand. I got my 1L, 2L, and 5L at either northernbrewer, midwestsupplies, or morebeer. Forget which. My 5L is the only one left because I have yet to drop it on the...

May work, but I wouldn't do it. I would first try adding some yeast nutrient, oxygenating, and raising the temperature. If that doesn't work, doing that again with a fresh starter might. If that doesn't work, you may have a lot of un-fermentable sugar, in which case you could try some beano.

I generally only use rice hulls when I'm either using a sticky adjunct (e.g. wheat or rye), thick mash, or when maxing out my mash kettles grain capacity. These are all times when you would need to worry about a stuck mash. As stated by the others, 2# is way too much.

I do the following: Ferment, stick in freezer for a day or two, filter, keg, cold condition. Putting it in the freezer before filtering ensures that the chill haze is removed. Don't try filtering carbonated beer. I tried once with a barely carbonated beer and it did not work at all, just lost beer.

FYI - I did my initial ferment with the California Ale yeast at 70-72. Once I pitched the WLP099 starter I moved it down to 68. Its now at 16.6% and doesn't seem to be having problems eating the sugar. Maybe this will change as it approaches the 20s, but so far its happy.

So far my Feb 7 120 clone brew has turned out very well. I've been adding more dextrose at each addition than anticipated because the yeast is working so efficiently. Its like in a permanent state of high krausen. I let the California ale yeast do its thing till the beer was around 11% with a...

I have 2 x 14 gallon conical fermentors and 6 carboys. Always thinking I need more....

I had the same problem. I believe this is because the probes are larger than the standard 1/4 port. I remember measuring mine and finding it was larger. I removed the plastic with a razor blade, sanded with 100 till it fit roughly, and then sanded with a high grit 300-400 to smooth it out. I...

I'm making a 120 clone tomorrow (Feb 7th) and will be using similar procedures. My plan is to keep a pitcher and whisk in a bucket of star san. A couple days after pitching I plan to pour some beer off into the pitcher, mix with dextrose using the whisk, and pitch back into the fermentor. I will...