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2g/gal at room temp and 1g/gal at 100°F both dropped to 0ppm by 20 minutes. So you are right, if you don't heat, go with 2g/gal.

Didn't 1g/gal work just as well? Or am I not remembering correctly?

Jeez, is that an ale or lager? I'm actually thinking about getting Roeam DO meter now from this thread. $100 for the extension probe and 3 caps is a good deal...as long as the meter itself works well, which it sounds like it does. Since you are having to remove some sulfites, have you thought...

About hour and a half from me right now with traffic. Probably 60 to 70 minutes. I may give them a call. I cant seem to find any info on this online. The small gas threads and dip tube are really throwing me off

I'll check the threads. The gas thread on this odd keg seems smaller than anything listed. I'll check the threads. The gas thread on this odd keg seems smaller than anything listed.

I just bought two used kegs. Previous owner said they don't hold pressure around the lids. Trying to determine which kegs these are to get the right o-rings. I figured I'd get everything new. First one I think I know. It seems to be Firestone Challenger. The beer dip tube is much wider...

I'm about .8 gallons per hour. I cover with a lid (leaving a small crack) and element power at 30%

Doesn't it have a microSD slot? I thought I read that somewhere

Exactly what I was thinking. I BIAB and the thought of having a ramp timer doesn't make sense to me. I've never used RIMS or HERMS so I can't comment on those types of systems but for BIAB, the step mash should use temp and not a ramp timer. Originally I thought the ramp rate was to tell the...

Right but Cato1507 is saying he believes the mash timer started when it hit his desired temp and the ramp timer didn't do anything. However that isn't how I understood the manual.

Yeah next brew day remember to watch the ramp timer on the bottom and see what happens when either the unit hits your desired temp or that ramp timer hits 0:00

Did it start the timer when it hit 152°F exactly or did it just happen that the ramp timer was very close to being right on and you didn't notice the timer started right when the ramp timer hit 0:00? It looks like when the 120°F step reaches the set time, it will start to ramp up to the 152°F...

I dont know too much about herms systems but isnt the thermo probe still in the mash tun? So the hlt heats the passing wort until the mash tun hits the right temp then the step timer starts. The mash ramp just seems like a manual timer that the controller can easily do

Right, that what my understanding was after reading the manual. Wouldnt it be better to just program the controller to start the timer as soon as the temp is hit? Doesnt matter if it takes 5 minutes or 30 minutes. The element keeps the mash at 135°F for 20 minutes. Ramps up to 145°F after 20...

Bringing back this thread. Just watched the video. Thanks for doing that. One thing I liked about this when I was at the NHC was the mash ramp. The way it was described to me was you set the mash ramp to x degree(s) per minute and the control ramps each step based on that setting. So if it...

No sorry, I was referring to the duotight comment. I had leaks when using duotight against metal threads with no gasket.

I found the exact opposite, at least for CO2 fittings.

This is it http://www.lowoxygenbrewing.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=312&hilit=yeast+scavenge It was actual Bryan that tried BIAB with yeast scavenging and got the black gunk I was talking about.

That is how I do it too. I'm sure oxygen is picked up in the wort coming from the bag but it is a very small amount and shouldn't affect the entire batch.

I'l have to look for that thread. I thought the thread starter said even after mashing they had black gunk on the bottom of the kettle that they don't get when preboiling. I'll try to find it. But in any case, sounds like others have had good success with the yeast method. I might have to...