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what kind of control are you looking to get out of this?

hey ill take it for the $90 shipped.. see pm

Ive used the set.. Yes it works, and if you are only looking to punch one or two holes you will get by. I tried using the 7/8" punch for a bunch of holes in the kettles, and ended up buying a whole green lee set used.. there is a huge quality diff between them. the threaded rod ended up...

yes correct, its thermoplastic tubing to aid in sealing the FB to the bottom of the keg.

No problem. So this FB sits the way it looks in the pic.. The slits were cut with a thin wheel grinder disc (1/8th thk).. the holes were .096, drilled on a drill press. To smooth, I just took a non-metallic grinder pad to it to remove any bits of metal stick hanging loose, and then buffed it...

i ended up having to buy a 6ft length of the polycarbonate.. in the end still cheaper as i was able to make 3x sightglasses w/ it

here is the one i made

heres the one i made

i would keep the drill size under 1/8th inch (.125).. and the more holes the better.. you can put a ton of holes at that dia without worrying to much about the structural integrity (within reason)...

i do this as well with my keggle / keggle top false bottom.. there are a few dents in the bottom of the keg, so the hose seals everything nicely (at least I beleive so).. never had any issues.

I have used 3/8" ID polycarbonate over a 3/8" stainless hosebarb. works well. I heated the polycarbonate before pressing into the barb and it somewhat melted into shape adhering itself tightly to the "steps" of the barb

The question really depends on how deep into the hobby you want to get... It comes more in the long run to spend the cash on propane burners, only to eventually upgrade to elec... I really wish i would of just gone right from extract to all grain electric... but its a difficult thing to...

I did something similar for my false bottom. I ended up added a few hundred .096 dia holes to it as well. After one or two stuck mashes the time at the drill press was well spent..

looking good.. yes its been brutal last few days.. im not too far from you.. hour or so drive..

6" should be fine if you are mounting a standard 1/16 pid (like the aubers). they are around 4" deep. So just watch your component placement behind the pid (leave adequate spacing of a few inches for door swing) and you should be fine.

first time seeing those, but for what they are worth... i would stick with the proven, adjustable roller mills.. you can either do by hand, drill, or even add a motor/pulley.. plus the hopper on that thing would have u constantly refilling.

Also, a HERMs coil may be used for cooling the wort as well. You can fill the HLT with cold tap water + jug or 2 of ice, and then just trickle flow in/out of the HLT as you pump the wort thru the coil. With a 50ft coil im able to cool 10gal to 65 in about 20ish mins.

To all the contributors, thanks for the fantastic thread! What I did was skip the reducer fitting and took a 1/2 coupling to the bench grinder to give it a similar taper. For the rest of the tool, I just took some 3/8-16 threaded rod, a cpvc reducer bushing 1.5" x 1" and some stainless...

I looked long and hard for a 5500W ULWD and was unable to find any in Ontario. I ended up having two shipped from the US.

Also keep in mind when you have your voltmeter between lines, you are seeing AC voltage, so it will be jumping up and down. A consumer voltmeter will not allow you to step thru the waveform, so you would not see the peaks (the 240v). You just see snapshots of where the voltage is. It is not like...