Search results

The reason you see people going with controllers is that you dont neccessarily want the element firing at 100% power all the time (which is what you would get with it being plugged into the wall). The principal is that you regulate the power going to the element on a per time basis. So, if you...

see this thread https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/e-herms-chiller-322258/

1.00 usd = 0.991990 cad :)

Keep in mind you have to be careful with the thermocouple wires. Be sure to keep them intact (ie: dont cut them). So, if you are planning on extending the wires I would go with an RTD like the PT100. Price wise they shouldnt be more then a few dollars more, then you gain the 3rd wire so...

why not use a sanke keg w/ cut top. for primary, you really dont need a tight seal, so i just use a simple pot lid..

Be sure to check out Simgo. They normally serve commercial folks, but ive had nothing but a great experience dealing with them for the odd's and ends.

one thing to mention.. if you are making drastic changes to your system, like relocating the PID temperature sensor, make sure you are re-runing the auto tune. This will recalibrate the P, I and D gains.. This will dial in things like the PIDs overshoot and overall temperature accurary...

my system is 2 tier, hlt and mlt on same, bk lower, one pump, one pid, elements in hlt and bk.. RTD is in the herms out.. this keeps the HLT water temperature very close to the MLT.. I know people will say there will be a water temperature variance in the hlt (ie: hotter water closer to the...

What ive found that works great is fill MLT with required water for intial mash (1.25 qt/lb or so), fill HLT all the way up. Fire up element in HLT set for mash in temp Start recirculating MLT water thru HERMS. This does take a bit longer, usually around 45mins as im heating more water, but in...

NEMA 3 & 4 are typically outdoor enclosures. NEMA 4 would be used for spray down applications as well. Both unnecessary for what I think your trying to do. NEMA 1, or 2 will be fine.

I think the comment was, why not continuously circulate with the pump always on, and then just control the heat in the BK/HLT to exactly what you want your mash to be.

great deal for those interested.. ab quality will last a lifetime.

Hey had a question about your digital temp sensors.. i bought the same ones, and im looking to hook them up to a NI myDAQ (http://www.studica.com/ca/en/National-Instruments-students-ni-labview-mydaq/ni-mydaq/781327-01.html) and using its digital in's and finally using labview to provide an...

nice find.. you can swap the front panel out with some polycarbonate/plastic... and then make your component cuts in it.. then either paint or leave it clear? and water tight? are you planning on submerging or spray down washing this thing..

You are normally only switching one leg of the 240V with the SSR. The contactors used in kals setup are 2P (they switch 2 wires).

give it a long soak in oxiclean.. and all will be will right with the world.

yes no need to worry.. even if your fermentation doesnt even create enough c02 to move the airlock, if its fermenting, it has created enough to generate a layer above the beer.. co2 is heaver than air, so no need to worry.. i have fermented 1-2 gallon batches in 6.5 gallon glass carboys without...

This can also be seen within your house. A lamp is normally wired using 16, or 18GA wire, yet the 15 amp circuit is hardwired with 14GA. The drop in wire does not warrant a fuse.

That pump doesnt look to be certified for food applications... it does not have a magnetic coupling. therefore you could be mixing lubricants and contaiminents in with your wort

I highly doubt the materials they were made out of were designed to be food safe, let alone withstand 200+ degF. but, if you must.. boil them in water for a few minutes cool the water taste.. any plastic'y tastes? even if there isnt, you still may be leeching toxic chemicals out of the plastic