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That's awesome, make use of what ya got! What the the ambient temp of the water? is it steady year round?

I would definitely take a step back and review your wiring. You should not being reading any voltage to your kettle. do you have a GFCI on this circuit? Check your resistance to ground from your kettle. if your good, i would then begin tracing backwards and see where the voltage is.

1000 SQ FT? you sure? thats a massive "shed"

measure the outside diameter of the threads of the element. im pretty sure you've got a 1" NPS element, not 1.25" (these are not nominal values, 1" pipe thread does not actually measure 1"). Sorry to sound confusing, i say blame the brits.

id be careful that is a hex nut, not a lock nut. its thread is not a pipe thread

how much torque have you applied in loosening it? It will eventually come off.

Just wondering, any updates?

have you tested your element yet? I would put an ohm meter on it and check its resistance before firing back up.

I would give it at minimum another week in primary. I dont do secondary, if it were me, I wouldnt even be checking it for 3 weeks. That will be a fairly big beer, even if it fermented out nicely, it wont hit its peak in terms of flavour for a few months.

I have used a touch of vaseline for some larger diameter pipe, but really, for our purposes, teflon and take it slow, there should be no impact of galling.

just curious, what do you do with the spent grain? interested as to why you are packaging it

they add lead to balance it to be calibrated in water to be 1.000 and how do they actually form the glass? I would expect it to be blown into a mold.

whoa hold on, 11ga stainless sheet? thats like 1/8th thick. is there a reason for this? already have the stock? 16ga should be adequate, may be slightly more difficult to weld, but easier to bend

you may want another for whirlpool recirculation..

after running this setup (cooling in the hlt via coil), ive since switched to a plate chiller. yes it was efficient, yes it worked, but it added time to the brew day.. by using a plate chiller, i dont need to clean the coil out (i run hot sparge water thru it).. i do 10 gal batches, and with a...

Yes, you should be going by the resistive load values. You can think of a induction motor as having a starting "inertia" it needs to over come, so it will draw more starting current. A resistive device draws its rated current, immediately.

looks great! I spy some westy in one of those pics! :)

my technique was to just grind down one coupler of each size so that it tapered to just before the female threads, and push it thru with a threaded 5/8" bolt... then pull out, and do the same with the actual coupler. I have 1 tapered coupler for each size 1/2" 3/4" 1" to reuse if needed.. and...

I dont have the knowledge to comment on the 220V system you are planning, but for 3. I would definitely go with camlocks first starting off. Even if you eventually plan to hard plumb some of the connections.. it will get you used to the system before having to redo your plumbing (just how...

I would say my main reason for herms was I was planning a element (w/ pid control) in the HLT anyway, so why not make full use of it and run wort thru a coil in it? I have 3 vessel set up with just 1 PID (auto for hlt, manual mode for BK). RIMS seems more suited for when you are running...