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I'm looking at getting this model, but as I'll have to order it online I'm not sure my ball-lock kegs will fit heigh-wise without a collar. How do you kegs fit? Are you building a collar for tap handles, or because you need the extra height?

I used WY1968 in one, and Nottingham in another - far preferred the 1968.

I was going to do a Thai wit with kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass, and ginger, but my local asian market was out of all three.... so I tried to do a blood orange wit, but overdosed on the coriander. Tastes like crap, so I guess I'll have to try again next year...

Hoppiness is a warm tun

When I did my wit, I just tossed 'em all in and did a good whirlpool at cooling, no problems.

Don't Worry, Be Hoppy

When you mash low, the enzymes are chopping large branched starches and complex sugars into smaller, more fermentable ones. Going from a low mash temp to a higher one won't result in a less fermentable wort because the enzymes can't rebuild complex sugars from a wort full of simple ones. The...

Unless you do a mash-out to 168, your enzymes will keep working and convert 100% to simple sugars, leaving you a super-dry brew in the end. Depending on the style, that may be OK, but just warning you...

I did a pale ale with all US Goldings, and me and my girlfriend have ripped through 5 gals in 2 weeks. Calculated in BeerAlchemy OG: 1.048 FG: 1.012 ABV: 4.8% IBU: 41.4 Color: 5.3 SRM Grain Bill 10.0 lbs. US 2-Row 0.5 lbs Caramel 40L Hop Schedule US Goldings - 2oz @ 60 mins US Goldings -...

The design catches my eye first - I'm far less likely to buy a beer with a boring label just because my gaze slips right over it. Next up is style, depending on mood. The name of the beer doesn't really play into it that much. Haverhill's Leatherlips IPA is pretty tasty...

I busted my floater last batch, I kept the batch 'cause just the little steel balls rained into the wort, and none of the red mystery liquid. Still a pain in the ass, but like someone said above, I just whirpooled the crap out of it and siphoned it off from the side. Nothing crunchy in the...

I do all the supplies ordering for the chem lab I work in, and they all say "alcohol" unless they're mercury, even if it's toluene or something else, so it's impossible to say unless you run the liquid through a test.

Alcohol thermometers are usually used for measuring body and meteorological temps, since the boiling point of ethanol is 173 degF and is very inaccurate beyond that. A thermometer that has readings up to boiling at 212 degF is more likely a different molecule, and since toluene is a central...

Unless the liquid is silvery, it's an alcohol thermometer, which is a bit of a misnomer since it can be filled with ethanol, toluene, kerosene, or some other organic molecule. As far as I understand it, ethanol thermometers are only good to 70 degrees Celcius, which isn't good for brewing...

I used to skim off the foamy stuff that develops leading up to the boil, but found that if I leave it in, I get better head retention in the finished beer. Head retention is mainly controlled by the proteins in the beer, and removing hot break removes those proteins, from what I understand.

FTW :rockin:

Wholesalehops.com - Hop to it!

Awesome, I'm glad someone else tried it. What were the predicted and measured values?

Does your lab have a UV/Vis spectrometer? You can check out the actual color value of your beer - I posted a thread about this, and I need someone to verify my work on it. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/measuring-srm-169872/ for the procedure.

Back when I was an extract brewer, I made an Imperial Stout that tasted like crap after 3 weeks in bottles - I forgot about it, rediscovered it in my celler after 12 months, and it was awesome. Too bad I drank it all so quick after I discovered this, 'cause I'm sure it would've been even better...