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double post

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Add it to the keg

If you look at the tests done deoxygenating mash water with yeast/dextrose they show the yeast working pretty fast. Not sure what the minimum amount of sugar is for getting O2 to desired levels but 13g DME(or 7g dextrose IIRC) works for 8gal of water. Much less than you'd need to prime a keg...

I wanted to update with some more of my tasting notes now that I've had time to enjoy all the beers I tried this process on. While none of these have anything to compare against I have faith in my palate. Neither IPA I made has seemed to have any difference in malt character. Good beers but I'm...

If you don't mind my asking what's the length of the piece you cut off?

I can't help but think that either they can't produce a higher purity for whatever reason or the process of doing so is too consuming to be profitable. Otherwise I'd imagine they'd already be selling the stuff.

@magnus314 are you running a mini mash to get your spiesse? Saving it from brewday?

I thought about this but couldn't come to a conclusion.... Wouldn't a less flocculant yeast potentially be better since you'd have more active yeast still in suspension?

The way I'm seeing it, and I could very well be wrong, is as long as your not spiking the hell out of the O2 levels the yeast should be able to scavenge it pretty quick. Look how fast the yeast scavenging method works on mash water and the O2 levels are much higher there than a finished beer...

I've mentioned this before but never really got an answer. Maybe I'm being hard headed but I'm still not getting why keg priming couldn't be a perfectly viable alternative to spunding. If the same concept is working to deoxygenate people's mash water why wouldn't it work on a keg?

I usually flip the keg over so there's no where for headspace to hide. I'd assume since there's water coming through the posts it would squeeze the air pocket out no?

I actually have one of those keg washers though I've been connecting and filling through both posts until it's only liquid coming through the PRV. It's actually made me wonder if doing this would make trimming the gas tube pointless. If the same method is purging the dip tube I don't see why the...

I agree with not rushing the primary. I would let the beer ferment out, give some extra time to settle and clean up, then let it condition in the bottle until your ready to enjoy them. Any time I have the option of aging in a fermentor or in package(bottle/keg) I prefer the latter.

Now that's exactly what I was smelling. Sort of hard to describe without sounding like chlorophenols but it's different.

Yea that's the sort of smell I'm more familiar with but that's not it. The only other time I've picked up this note was when trying to bring year old yeast back to life. But this was a fresh pack made into a starter and pitched at high krausen. Fermentation picked up in a few hours so I know...

Hmmm thats not what Im getting either. I pulled a sample for a taste test and it smells and tastes completely fine in a glass so I'm not going to worry about it.

Good info but not really answering what I'm asking here though. What sort of character is the sulfur coming through as? I'm asking because I have a bitter in the fermentor and the fermentation has a smell to it I'm unfamiliar with but its not the stinky eggs or match smells I know as sulfur...

What are peoples "sulfur bombs" coming out like? Match sticks? Rotten eggs? Something else?

Looks like it's getting there. Clean enough to use IMO. If you want to polish it up more soak it longer, possibly in a slightly stronger concentration of sanitizer, and wipe it with a cloth.