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When reading the 10A rating on the relay, also notice that the rating is at 250V. If you do a quick web search for an electrical power calculator and enter the specified ratings on the relay, then recalculate at 110V and the resulting wattage (2500) you get 15A+.

The wiring diagram isn't technically wrong. It assumes that where the words Heat and Cool are you install your load device between the relay and neutral. Thus completing the circuit. Other wiring diagrams show just the hot side of the circuit, leaving the installer to figure out how to...

I can't really tell how you have things wired up just by the pictures provided. However, the picture of your motor states that if you need to reverse the direction, interchange Black(T5) and Red(T8) leads. It might help if you can provide a schematic of how you have it wired up to resolve the...

Beautiful! Thanks for sharing.

Honestly, if you plan on wiring up your own control panel, you should learn how to draw up an electrical schematic. Be safe and understand what you are doing rather than just following directions that might not be specific to your needs

Glad you were able to get it to work!

If you're only going to use one outlet, then you can delete the one on the right and connect a black wire directly to terminals 1 & 4. I'll update that wiring diagram with one directly from the manual shortly.

Not really. Since the controller will only turn on the heat or cool individually, then you only need wire large enough to handle the greatest load. The amount of power that the controller is pulling will have little affect.

For those who are considering the heat and cool Fahrenheit controller, here is a simplified wiring diagram to follow:

Hopefully, this will help out:

Sorry about the delayed wiring diagram. Yes, hook the hot/black wire to 1 & 4 and the brass/gold side of the outlet you want on all the time. Connectors 2 & 3 would go to your switched outlet where you break off the tab on the brass side of the outlet you want switched. White is connected to...

Ah, I'm following you now! Instead of placing a load between the relay and the neutral return, your saying that there is the potential for someone to wire it directly with no load. Yes, that would kinda ruin someones day. Thanks for making that clear! I'm going to put together a typical...

Not following you here. It should be taken literally as that is the schematic on how it is to be wired up. Could you please elaborate your concern?

Yes, it's definitely 110V. The wiring is a bit different. But only in that the power for both heat and cool are connected internally. I'll see if I can put a wiring diagram together in the next few days.

My guess is that it won't fit if there is to be any kind of rotation once inside the room. Considering that there is about a half inch to spare on the long side, as soon as you rotate the freezer, you'll hit a wall. Now, if you can remove the door and push the freezer straight into the space...

I would agree as well. It may take a little more work and thought, but the finished product is well worth it in my opinion. Besides, that's what the group is here for.

If you wanted to try the DIY route, this would work for you. Just ask questions and post pictures if you need help. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ebay-aquarium-temp-controller-build-163849/index405.html#post6024764

It's over here. Although it's not exactly an STC-1000, it is a temp controller with heat and cool displaying in degrees Fahrenheit. I'v had one running my ferm chamber for about a month now with no problems...

I managed to get my hands on a 50 liter Euro keg that fits my fridge. Check to see if a keg will fit you your chest freezer.

If you guys are looking for a heat/cool temp controller in degrees Fahrenheit, they found one over here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ebay-aquarium-temp-controller-build-163849/index405.html#post6024764