Search results

Do a search, there are already multiple threads on here about the tap-a-draft. Just to start you off https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=59664&highlight=tap-a-draft https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=60237&highlight=tap-a-draft...

I'm on my third brew and still only on my second hydrometer, and that's only cause the first one that came with my kit was broke when I opened the box and had to take it back and exchange it. I'll probably pick up a backup just in case, but I don't expect to be needing it anytime soon...

Ok, I'm slightly confused. If the bar is being built around the keezer, is there going to be a gap in the bar counter where the keezer is at, or will the counter be going over the top of the keezer? If there's going to be a gap in the counter for the keezer, I would think it would look...

I would think, assuming it's tall enough to accomodate a cornie, it would just be a matter of changing out the sanke fitting for a couple of ball lock fittings and possibly changing out some hoses if the size isn't right. But I can't afford keging stuff yet, so what do I know... :mug:

I haven't done all grain yet, but from everything I've read, you are supposed to stir up the mash when you add the sparge water and then wait for it to resettle before draining. That's about all I can comment on...

Yeah, it'd be an extract. I'm no where near financially able to go all grain any time soon. Also, beersmith adjusts the starting boil volume depending on the boil time. So hitting OG and proper volume post boil shouldn't be a problem. That works out nice then, shorter boil and not as much...

Ok, one more question. If I'm only adding the first hop addition for 20min, is there any particular reason to boil for 60min? Couldn't I just do a 20min boil? What if any effects would this have? TIA!!

You wouldn't need to cut the tube short, it would need to be longer to reach the bottom corner. Basic geometry...

How's this look? Name: Iniana Pearle Ale Type: Extract Batch Size: 5.00 gal Boil Size: 5.72 gal Boil Time: 60 min Taste Rating(out of 50): 35.0 6.00 lb Light Dry Extract (8.0 SRM) Dry Extract 85.7 % 0.50 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 7.1 % 0.50 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt -...

Ahh, that's why I just went for a lower amount of hops. Shooting for the 25IBU range. I think I'm going to give what I've come up with a try and see how it comes out. I'm sure I'll drink it. If the SWMBO won't, well, that's just to bad... :mug:

Ok, not quite understanding what you mean. I understand the addition after flameout part (I'm assuming that would replace the 5min addition), but the rest of it I'm still scratching my head at :confused:

I would personally be perfectly happy to double (at least) the amount of hops in that. If the SWMBO is going to drink it though, I need to keep it under ~30IBU. As long as everything looks good, I'll probably make up a batch of that for my next brew and see how it comes out. :mug:

I'm kinda limited on what hops I can get at my LHBS (Quality Wine and Ale). Their prices are pretty comparable to online for most ingredients, and even after tax I can't beat there prices when you add shipping from an online shop (plus I usually get stuff cheaper in store than on their...

I doubt it's the carbonation. Coopers Sparkling Ale is pretty highly carbonated and she likes it.

That could be it too, I just looked, didn't realize there was a 10 IBU gap between the two styles... Looks like Coopers is around 25ish and Sierra Nevada is around 35ish. I'll have to keep that in mind. Here's a recipe I came up with, how does it sound for a less hoppy pale ale? Name...

Ok, I really like pale ales, but SWMBO doesn't like the bite on the toungue she gets from them (Sierra Nevada, etc...). I don't notice a "bite on my toungue" from pale ale's, so not entirely sure what she's referring too... Coopers Sparkling Ale, which I also like, apparently doesn't have...

Sorry, new here, forgot I was in the Wine forum... For wine it's acetobacter you have to worry about. It's the bacteria that makes vinegar (acetic acid) from alcohol. Unless you're shooting for vinegar, then by all means, don't sanitize your bottles. :mug:

Cause you'll end up with sour beer like I did on my first batch when I didn't properly sanitize my bottles (Tbsp, not tsp of easy clean to a gallon :cross: ). Lactobacillus (sp??) and wild yeast do not make for a good tasting beer...

That is odd, the OP posted the first reply and answered his own question. That seems a tad bit fishy too me, especially with a post count of 4...

DME may be better, but a no boil LME kit is alot easier for a first go...