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Good question, and here's the funny part: most people in my area are using Wyeast 1318 to make their NEIPAs. But if you look up that strain you'll see it has a high flocculation! So I am assuming it's mostly hop haze since that's what I use and usually get a very hazy beer.

I think this really hits on the main concern. I'd probably opt for the same approach myself, if it weren't for my "customers " (neighbors, family). They remarked very positively on the color and haze of my batch without the moss, so that's just how I do it now. The flavor is probably the same...

FWIW, I never use irish moss or whirlfloc in my NEIPA, and have no issue with body or mouthfeel. Get a nice hazy / cloudy easy drinking end result. I typically cold crash for 2 days before kegging.

Nevermind-- I found a source. Sierra Nevada seems to use the term "Scalping" for this loss of hop aroma due to vibration in shipping: "According to Nielsen, agitation during shipping can be a significant contributing factor to degradation in aroma. As a beer sits on delivery trucks and...

Do you have any sort of link / reference for that?

Actually, it will change slightly. CO2 is absorbed by water which will cause the pH to go down a bit. How much depends how long it sits out, I suppose. Also, if the water contains chlorine, that will escape over time and cause the Ph to go up. Again, it could just be a point or two, but that's...

Sure you can-- how did you perform the other steps? Remove a specific amount of the mash to a kettle, boil, put back in the mash tun. There are calculators that will tell you how much you need to remove and boil. For example, let's say you have a mash of 12 pounds of grain using 3.75 gallons...

That's exactly what I do as well.

I do side-by-side batches (2 sets of equipment.) I did 4 batches in a day once: back-to-back brew sessions with dual equipment in parallel. But to be honest, it was miserable. Halfway through the second dual batch I wanted to quit. Started at 6am and finished at 5pm or so.

There really won't be any difference between a 60 minute boil and a 90 minute boil in this recipe. IPAs like Dogfish Head use a 90 minute boil to continuously hop over that 90 minutes, a little at a time. If you want more of the citra flavor, you should keep that 1oz 60 minute addition, and...

A few questions on this one-- why all the wheat malt? I see bittering additions with the hops but no flavor additions at all. What's your goal for the end product?

Star-san or iodophor is the way to go, no question. Both, when diluted properly, are extremely fast and effective at sanitizing and will require no rinsing. B-Brite should be used as a cleaning agent, not sanitizer. I typically keep a spray bottle of star-San handy for quick sanitation of...

Hello! If you're looking for the juicy flavor of those NE IPAs, you're not going to get it with that recipe. You'll need to change the timing of the hop additions a bit. NE IPAs get all their juiciness from post-boil whirlpool additions after the wort has dropped below 180F. In fact, I don't...

My IPAs have always been lacking-- mostly in the flavor department. I'm working on getting the late hop additions just right for good flavor and aroma. This is what I have come up with: 5 Gallon Batch: 13 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) 1 lbs 8.0 oz...

More unrelated strawmen arguments... some reducto absurdum thrown in for good measure. Strong arguments! :drunk:

First, it's not off topic. We're discussing using starsan as an acid source to modify pH, aren't we? The OP asked for comments. You seem to think that anything aside from praise is out of line. You're also creating a strawman argument saying people are objecting because they think starsan...

I heard someone say they use starsan to lower their mash pH.

Nah, that's not really the case here. This is more along the lines of "I can't be bothered to do it the right way so I found a shortcut that isn't as good, but gets the job done." Remember in the 80s when Austrians used diethylene glycol in their wine? BRILLIANT! New way of doing things! Moved...

I typically sparge around 77-83 C (170-180F). More important than temperature when sparging is the water's pH. More alkaline water (pH above 6 in this case) will have the effect of extracting tannin from the grain husks. Keeping the sparge water under that number will defend against this. I...

Well, you don't have to take grain absorption into account when figuring out how much gypsum to add if you're adding it equally to all of your source water. For example, if all your source water (sparge and mash) has 120 ppm sulfate, and some of it gets absorbed by the grain, all the water that...