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I'd also add another tap - I have room for 5-6 kegs and only 3 taps. I had grand ideas about aging beers, but so far that ain't happening. Oh yeah - and... - insulating the collar with 2" pink foamy stuff - made the temps consistent from top to bottom - no more 42F beer in 48F lines. - buying...

What are you doing with the waste water ?

I've got a El Mustee 24"x36" mop sink mounted on a 24" pedestal. I think this is the best money I've spent to date - I can clean kettles, carboys, and coolers all without making too much of a mess or straining my back.

Even with the racking pointing up and (6"?) out of the bottom?

I was wondering if you couldn't use the ported Better Bottles and just use the spout to pour right into a hydrometer test tube. I'm currently using glass carboys in my fermentation fridge and I always have to pull them out to get enough clearance to get a thief in the top to get a sample...

Just finished mine last night - I got the deal from Home Depot as well. I decided to do only 3 Perlick 525SS taps - 3 beers on tap, 3 aging behind them. All of the other tubing, connections, etc came from Midwest. Only task left is to get the missing gas QD for the incoming line - thankfully...

that is where I spent most of my money (to date...the equipment is slowly catching up). Having a big sink to wash things, racks, hooks, etc for brushes and tubes is so nice. I figured since cleaning was 75% of brewing, I'd spend my way into comfort there first.

spend 4k on the brewing room and the rest on equipment - nothing like having a brewroom that makes cleaning and storing items easier

besides monitoring the sparge, what other tasks does a refractometer work better than a hydrometer ?

Do you need to use the fine mesh bags or do the course ones work fairly well for pellet hops ?

Thanks, I forgot to mention that earlier - I'm doing starters from liquid yeast. I'm using pure 02 in the starter, as well as a stir plate.

:off: Is there anywhere to get that as a "book on tape" so I can listen to it on the ride to Sturgis ? :D

Nothing as much fun as being out of date - something I'm realizing after 2 years off! Do you have a pointer to some of that research & data? I'd like to start refreshing my antiquated days.

Indeed - I think this is the first thing I'll try. I've heard some craft/professional brewers do this with every batch so they can really know when "done" is "done".

Mash temps were 153F - measured in multiple spots in the 10 gallon Rubbermaid cooler. I checked the thermometers before starting - I have 1 blichman in the boil kettle, and electric probe and a regular dial - I always make sure they agree during the mash water heating at a couple different...

The fridge I'm using has a 2 stage temp controller - it is in my garage and summer temps in MN can swing the ambient temps above 75 during the day and below 60 at night. So, I heat and cool it to keep the fermentation temps controlled. For this batch it was heat to 68F and cool below 71F.

I want to get it off of the cold break and other trub. I'm one of those "still do a secondary" guys.

I'm just returning to brewing after a couple years off from getting married, buying a house, moving, etc and am running into an issue with attenuation. With both an ESB and IPA all-grain brew that went nominally well, I can't get past 67% attenuation with yeast that should take me to 73-77%...

I've got a beer that isn't fermenting out all the way, at least not quickly. This one is an IPA - mashed at 153F. I had a mash-out problem - I hit my 170F mash-out, but then the false bottom run-off tube clogged and it took 45 min to get it all fixed, including dumping to a 2nd vessel, fixing...