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A half lb total would be about 4-5%. It would indeed give you a big smoky flavor, more a primary player than a complexity...it's all about how much of that you want. I once made a smoked oatmeal stout that tasted like breakfast had been made over a campfire...WAY too much, but then, some people...

Try Arrogant Bastard next to Shiner's Pink Grapefruit... AB uses all Chinook (at least, they used to) and Shiner uses pink grapefruit...I think they actually use the juice.

Hmmm... You're still at 16% total for smoked malts (peated is smoked). I think you'd be very disappointed with what you got using that much. I'm guessing you're going for a wee heavy or big brown ale. Others will surely have different opinions, but, sticking as close to your original...

I like what DFH did for craft beer, but I do think it's gotten overrated. That's not saying that they make a bad beer, or that they suck, but they definitely get more hype than their product warrants. I like a lot of DFHs beers and they do a lot of interesting things, and that's great, but I get...

Hadn't heard about hypochlorite use. Those values are (nominally) harder than what I've found other places. I imagine your carbon filter will probably be fairly soft. I too am very close to Chattahoochee WTP. I'd guess they have a similar treatment SOP...

Sorry, I hadn't actually compared their recipe...and, since I don't work for them, wasn't advocating buying from them (I've been known to use their AG sheets to piece together recipe from the LHBS...horrors!)

Northern Brewer has a kit for it...the extract version got 5 stars on 12 reviews (no reviews on the AG version or 1 gal). Take that as you will....I guess... (The porter got 4.5 on 27 reviews for extract, and the 1 gal got 4 on 3 reviews.) Here...

Has anyone had a recent Fulton County water report done? There are a lot of "average" values out there, and BeerSmith even has one...just curious if anyone has anything empirical. Also, I've heard that ATL alternates between chlorine and chloramine usage. Any validity to this? I typically...

Agree with statement above. I keep smoked malts to about 1% of the grain bill. Lends a nice smoked supporting actor without stealing the spotlight.

Thanks for the info. Seems like up to 100% is definitely a possibility (how did that 100% rye kolsch taste?). I'm going to attempt a mini-mash with 100% and see how thick that gets...and what it tastes like. If I dig it, I'll do a 100% small batch BIAB (how much 100% rye beer am I going to...

I use orange flavors as a component of my Christmas Ale. I use the vodka steep technique. I zest five oranges (you don't want the white part of the peel as it's very bitter) and cover with vodka for a couple of days. Then strain off the liquid and add the appropriate amount of "tea" to keg or...

All comments and suggestions appreciated! This is modeled from Ohiobrewtus's EF clone, but I wanted it amped up a little bit. Ingredients: ------------ Amt Name Type # %/IBU 9 lbs 8.0 oz Pale Malt (2...

Less grapefruit than Cascade but otherwise very similar. I started using it as a replacement for Cascade in my House IPA and stuck with it because it gives a mellower, more balanced flavor that more people can get on board with.

Yep! If you keep it cool (but not so cool that it ends up dry) it's much more unique than the million and one IPAs using 1056. Edit: I agree on the 10L over 20L. Especially if using English yeast.

Ah, indeed, I was thinking about doing a full, standard mash...that would in fact give me 100% absolute max.

I'm trying to make a control rye beer to get a big rye flavor that I'll then blend with a SMaSH (working on getting my flavor ratios). I want to put as much rye as possible into the control so that I have an upper limit. My plan was to use 2-row in the rye control and the SMaSH mix-in...

I've looked through some of the older stuff and seen that some folks have built or are otherwise using peristaltic pumps... What's the overall impression? Worth it? Or too much of a pain? Potential pitfalls? Thanks!

I'm working on a single tier, automatic HERMS build right now. I'm considering going with 1 pump, and doing a strange sort of batch/fly sparge. The sparge would start, add just a little, then lauter a little. Sparge a little, lauter a little. Thoughts?

I'm working on a design for Brutus 10-style system (with some changes!). Lonnie Mac's design calls for returns built into the kettle lids--I understand why he does this, but my design offers the opportunity for a couple of changes without losing the ease of transfer from vessel to vessel...

I'd left my multimeter on my boat when I winterized :mad: Catt22 confirmed to me that most of the Johnsons are 2 switch, so I went with it, and it does in fact close on decrease when the hot wire is switched to the location labelled "3".