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Thanks, I forgot to update that, 10%. 66.3 mL in mash. 88.4 mL in sparge. I think I'm going to have to buy the concentrated stuff off Amazon and dilute it down for safety. That's half of a bottle of the 10% stuff.

So below is my plan for Saturday. I wanted to get the Sulfates and Chlorides up. To mash: 2.9g Gypsum 0.8g Calcium Chloride 4.7mL Phosphoric Acid To sparge: 3.6g Gypsum 1.0g Calcium Chloride 6.2mL Phosphoric Acid This will bring my pH to 5.35 and my mineral content to: 138 Ca 31 Mg 12 Na...

Do you think just using phosphoric acid instead of lactic acid would be enough to use my tap water? That would be much better and would be thrilled with that solution. Much better than RO or boiling.

I'm in the US, Minnesota specifically, where water is virtually free. Buying it is probably cheaper than the propane to boil water then there is the time to boil and cool it. Is my water useless across the board or just for hoppy beers?

I got a water test done and have the information below. The last couple batches I have been adding lactic to the mash water per Brewcipher but I was thinking I might go further and dilute or add minerals as necessary for a Sierra Nevada pale ale clone I'm doing this weekend. I also use campden...

I use a standard fridge as a fermentation chamber because a dumpy old fridge was in my basement when I bought the house. I ferment in kegs and it can hold 5 of them so it works well for me.

I'm not in the area but is that an online deal? Wondering where you are seeing them for that price.

This is how I do it. I fill it up to 5g and just accept there will be a bunch of blowoff.

So I had a keg backflow into a co2 line. It stopped at the distributor though. I blew the beer out and then dumped some water in to flush it out. I still have some water gurgling in the line. Will the water evaporate into the co2 and dissipate or do I need to pull it apart?

If the prior two fall through I'm interested

I underestimated my mash efficiency doing a decoction mash with a Berliner Weisse. Goal was 1.032 og and I'm at 1.041. Think I should water it down or just roll with it? Watering it down prior to fermentation could be a challenge as I have 6 gallons in my fermentation bucket already so I might...

Do most people preheat and assume no loss to cooler or anticipate a loss and start with an ambient temp cooler?

I'm doing a traditional mash. I'll try tightening it up next time and see if I have sparge issues. Currently it is set where a credit card will be pulled through by the rollers but not slide through on its own.

Thanks for the input. I'll do some research on no sparge brewing for these smaller beers. Next weekend I'm doing a 10g batch that requires 24 lbs of grain so that should determine if it helps. I use a calculator with a cooler weight of a little more than 9 lbs and a specific heat of .3...

I just went back to all grain brewing and have been measuring the temp loss on my mash tun. I have a 48 quart Coleman cooler in the pictures below. My last batch was a Cream Ale. I had 8 lbs of grain and 2.5 gallons of strike water. I was mashing at 150F and measured a 8 degrees F loss over...

I just got a cereal killer grain mill and have it set to .0375 per the marks on the mill. I got the crush below from a bill that is 66% pilsner and 33% wheat. Does it look correct?

I threaded a pipe nipple in and out a few times. I'm thinking its fine.

I think it worked but it is really hard to see in the threads

I don't have a recipie but I do have an anecdote. I was at a "beer" liquor store by my house that shelves beer by country of origin. A young lady came in looked around for a minute and then asked the gal behind the counter if they had Old English. The counter gal asked if she checked the British...

I have a consumer kegerator. I could fit (3) 5g pin locks or (3) 5g and (1) 3g ball lock in it. Ball locks won out for one more beer on tap. Had there been no difference in the quantity of kegs I could fit I would have done pin lock for the reduced cost.