Search results

Yes I think my coolers are not efficient do to some corrosion I found on the heat-sink. I "rebuilt" one of them by taking it apart and found that the heat-sink may have had some oxidation, so I polished it up and added better grease. It got the heat sink a lot colder, so I am going to do that...

You would think! I have added some insulation and tightened things up but I still can’t get less than about 62 deg. They work good, here are things I have done. 1) Took apart again turned them on and froze drops of water on them, (they work) 17deg infrared temp measurement. p.s. don’t...

Yea, turning them off made it warmer! I may need to beef up the insulation. I am getting a lot of condensation of the cold side heat sink. I was expecting it to get cold enough that it would freeze but it is not.

i put thermal grease on both sides of the cooler, hot and cold side heat sinks, was that a mistake?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rt=nc&nma=true&item=330526899883&si=qLtEoh50wuNBdI30MVK1B9RBJys%253D&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_500wt_1156 This is what I bought.

Just like the picture above, you are seeing the hot side with the heatsink and fans.

Well installed them and it is running (24 hours), however I am only getting it down to 67, about a 10deg drop where I live, :( not sure why. I just turned 2 of the 4 units off, maybe my power supply is weak. Any ideas?

Guess i'll have to go pick one of those up!

I like this idea, anyone have ideas for a sanke attachment? I have both kind to my tap tower and struggle with cleaning them and not having to take hoses off barbs etc.

My job does not allow me to replace my frozen bottles of water as often as I would like in my fermentation box. So I am going to upgrade.....because I can :) I have been told a-lot about Peltier inefficiencies, But I have also been told I can buy beer at a store. Neither seem to faze me so...

i have posted the before, It is the "Brew Monster" The cooler is not in this picture I am upgrading it to a 10 gallon at this time.

To do the decoction is it "REQUIRED" to actually boil a portion of the grains? What if I raised the temperature of the cooler using only the runnings? I could direct fire for some carmalization or I could not to avoid this. Or I could actually do both.. not sure why I would do that, but i...

Ok starting to understand. I do have a plastic cooler however I can start taking runnings off (would have to replace some with water in order to keep height above the grain bed). Then I can run that to my brew kettle heat up (denature/direct fire) and pump back on top of the "cooler" grain...

Ok, can you define "Mash Out" how do I know when this is happening? I hear about adding to much water and messing up the PH, or having to much water and stripping off to much organic material, (changing flavors.) I have done most of this above, by hand, but fail when it comes to understanding...

I have a filtering system in place so I will catch any grains and bring the first bit of wort back onto the grain bed to set it for clearness this can been done as long as necessary. I guess after that I will "rinse" the filtered and set grain bed with clean water until I reach just below...

Should I "recirculate" my runnings while adding my sparge water? Is that what a "step" mash is? Because I could step up the temps at any point, or I guess lower them if needed? This can be done via a direct fire, or an imersion copper coil in my HLT. Thanx again

What should I do, The system I built has the ability to do just about anything, but I am not understanding some basic ideas. Once I am done with the mash and I start to collect wort should I add hot water on top of my grain (fly sparge) until I reach the total pre-boil volume? Should I...

Mine looked like that also, hit it with a buffing pad again and the jewelers rouge, but hit it HARD!! I did that because I got pi$$ed, and it turned into a mirror.

NO WAY!!! I'll come take it from you and these awesome guys will help you get something that will work!!! :rockin: