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I have to say that IMO the liquid yeast will ALWAYS make a better beer!!! And there is a much larger variety of yeast (some styles you can ONLY brew correctly using the proper yeast strain) So you save $3.00 on a batch of beer... but if it isn't what you were shooting for, then I have to say...

Did you make a starter? If not, then 16 hours isn't that long, truth be told... it can take 48 hours or longer depending on a range of conditions... How did you aerate the wort? Low oxygen content can also lead to long lag times... combine that with no starter and 48 hours or even longer in...

Gonzo, The cooler you ferment, the longer it can take to finish primary fermentation... "Secondary" is really a misnomer... 99% of your fermentation should be done before you transfer to secondary and, in the mid-60's, that can mean longer than a week in primary on occation... I recommend...

Funny you should mention that... a few hours ago, I bottled a Belgian Dubbel that had been in primary for 55 days... tastes fine and I expect no trouble with it... I'm beginning to believe that autolysis might just be a myth created by those lager guys LOL... Truthfully, I have yet to experience...

Here's a good article on big beers if you haven't see it yet: Thinking Big: Getting a Handle on Brewing Big Beers http://www.maltosefalcons.com/tech/brewingbig.php later, mikey

Bopper, Unless it tastes super bad, I'd vote for bottling it... even if it doesn't taste the best as it sits, it is almost always worth the trouble to bottle... there are important flavors missing that will only come to life with carbonation... do yourself a favor and bottle, you'd be...

No joke... supposed to be good eatin'!! http://www.bowhunting.net/susieq/boar.htm :D later, mikey

Whether 'tis nobler in the mind to suffer The slings and arrows of under-attenuation, Or to take arms against a sea of fermentables, and by pitching end them LOOK what you made me do!!! :ban: :ban: :mug: mikey

Hey Wilson, Is that one pound of dark candi syrup or one bottle? One bottle is 1.5 pounds, for the record... If you are using a whole bottle with all the malts listed and 75% efficiency you should get an OG of about 1.072 which is great for a Dubbel... if only one lb then it will...

According to ProMash this is not true... if you lock ingredients to batch size and raise the volume from 5 to 10 gallons everything doubles and you get the exact same OG and IBUs, i.e. your BU:GU ratio stays the same... a larger wort volume only gives higher hop utilization if you move from a...

You should read the Belgian Trilogy: Brew Like A Monk Wild Brews and Farmhouse Ales There is SO much info on brewing those wonderful Belgian beers to "style"... It lists where both White Labs and Wyeast got each yeast strain and gives a more real world (i.e. Belgian) look at the...

Yep... the CO2 and heat produced by the yeast will pick up the trub and swirl it around like crazy... totally normal and nothing to worry about... congrats on the first all grain, and on your second brew!!! :mug: mikey

Uh, where did all the posts on this thread go?? Did we have a board crash??

Here's a good page that explains Batch Sparging: http://www.bayareamashers.org/content/maindocs/BatchSparging.htm "One important thing to note is that extraction efficiency will be optimized if the two runoff volumes are equal. For example, if you are going to runoff a total of 11 gallons...

I agree... and use a blow off tube on the 6.5 as well... I have 5.5 gallons of Belgian Dubbel going in my 6.5 gallon carboy right now and it has pushed about .25 gallons of foam out of my airlock since I went to bed last night!!! Depending on what yeast you use and what temp it is fermenting at...

I'd bump up your mash ratio to 1.5 quarts per pound of grain to have an average mash thickness... 1 qt/lb is considered thick, 2+ qt/lb is considered thin... From http://www.howtobrew.com/section3/chapter14-6.html The grist/water ratio is another factor influencing the performance of...

According to ProMash the extract you stated should give around 1.088 and even with 17 oz of grain and 100% efficiency the reading is only 1.096... There just isn't enough sugar available to get a reading of 1.145 - 1.150 in 5 gallons... The only thing I can think of is your hydrometer is...

:confused: Ok, to get 1.150 you'd need around 16 lb DME in 5 gallons (21.5 lbs in 5 gallons if you are using LME)... either you used a 10 gallon recipe for a 5 gallon batch, or you got a bad reading... I'm voting bad reading myself... let us know what the recipe was and what your procedure...

There are some things you can do to make this a better beer... First, read all you can BEFORE you brew: here's a good place to start http://www.howtobrew.com/intro.html If you want to start a little further along the Homebrew path, read section 2, Brewing Your First Extract and Specialty...

Uh... no, there's not... but if you look at BJCP Category 6. Light Hybrid Beer there is 6A. Cream Ale which is the closest to what he made... he was a little low on OG and just a tad high on hops (maybe... with a higher OG then it would be "perfect") but all in all it's a Cream Ale... I'd say...