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I'd strongly reccomend going the batch sparge route. Denny Kohn's website shows how to build a cooler MLT with an SS hose braid for a manifold. I built a system like his, and did split stovetop boils for a few years before going to a propane burner recently, and got great results. New 40 qt...

It seems to be a theme that if I want to get better at brewing I'm going to have to do more math. I'll factor that in-- it's a great rule of thumb. Thanks.

So I tried to brew a recipe for eight gallons a few weeks ago, with all the intentions of splitting the batch to test two hop schedules (one five and one three gal carboy). Grain bill was a typical English ale-- maris otter, crystal, aromatic + a few ounces of flaked oats; 21 lbs in all. This is...

You mean, patience with bottle conditioning. (pulls hair out.)

On a separate note, heard recently that bottle conditioning is more difficult after cold crashing-- true?

I just used the Wyeast 1968 on an ESB and it went from 1064 to 1016. Mash was at 150 F. Does the London Ale attenuate much more than that?

Mine's a straight stainless steel braid, never had a stuck sparge, but the thing somehow floats up into the mash at times. If I had a way to fasten it to the bottom I would, just to keep it out of the grain bed.

I do the same. I went all grain to save money and control the fermentability of my wort. It's worked fine for me. Beer is very forgiving!

Nice set up. In my apt, I have to make space sacrifices. My best cool temp area is the floor in the kitchen, and then I have to deal with the oven and kids complaining about "Why is the window open in the winter?" :~)

Dude. This is something from an auto-supply parts store? Looks like a simple solution.

On a similar note, I just bottled a Belgian Golden strong, 14 lbs grain + 1 lb cane sugar. Mashed at 149, fermented around 75 degrees (ambient temp in kitchen.) Bottled last week, and tasted like... nail polish. Super hot alcohols. Final Gravity was around 1.008, starting was 1.076. Any hopes...

Good points, all. I think the question taps into the DIY nature of a homebrewer-- this yeast had to come from somewhere, so why can't I do it, dammit? The fruit skins and yeast-washing regimen sounds the best, or better than one posting about the fact that bird droppings contain wild yeast...

A buddy of mine has been doing sourdough, and thought he'd try a similar process to get the critters off of grain husks. Anyone done this and gotten a real strain of yeast? I've heard that you can make a sour mash this way, but would that ferment out to make something drinkable??

Go for the smaller batches. I would buy a 3 gallon carboy for the secondary-- $15. I've done lots of scale down recipes with my 5 gal. carboy as the primary and the 3 gal. as the secondary. I have an apt. and only drink a few a week so this has worked really well.