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I get your issue. I got a good deal on a 14 gallon Blichmann but I needed to add the coil to use with my glycol unit and other odds and ends. I didn't even upgrade the valves yet as it is the third fermenter in my rotation. I also have two SS brewtech 7.5 gallons BME. If I were to do it over...

I know the OP already ordered his but I thought I would weigh in on the SS. I have had it for two years, I like the updates they have made to the new models. My biggest complaint it is a beast to move but I don't need to move it often. It works great.

From what I understand the 3V you need two 240V lines so you can have two elements on at the same time. So you can heat your sparge water while running your RIMS. The 2V has the ability to control two elements but only one at a time. So I have the 2V I can either have it heating my sparge water...

Careful with bottling after 7 days. If the beer isn't finished fermenting it is a good way to get bottle bombs. I would wait two weeks at minimum and ensure your gravity readings don't move for three days. The hardest part about being a new brewer is patience.

I think it is a win, win. Either a hard cider or a wheat beer. The tartness may lend itself to a cider or DO BOTH!

I own two SS BrewTech 7.5 and they are great.

Also, beer will taste completely different after carbonation happens. Watery may mean thin which is going to help once it is carbonated. Did you do a full volume boil or did you add water to the fermenter?

Bitterness comes from early hop additions in your boil. So when you add hops and boil for 60-45 min is where the majority of your bitterness comes from. You can adjust the amount of hops at this time or even eliminate them from your recipe. Also look at the types of hops you are using as some...

I have times when I am fighting it and other times when things just fall into place. Over the years of brewing I have tried to enjoy the entire process including problems and issues. I feel like I can always learn something and try to accept it as a challenge to get better. My last brew day was...

Hey All, I have a Brau Supply 120V system up for sale. I am moving to 240V multiple Kettle system. Here is what it includes I am in South New Jersey. Local pickup only. $500.00 *10 Gallon Kettle *Strainer *Pump *Plate Chiller *Three Tri Clamps and Gaskets *Temp Probe *Heating Element *Control...

J/K. Since you only do it a few times a year, a hand truck strikes me as the best solution, plus you'll be able to use that for other things, rent it out to friends when they move, things like that. :) Man, you are a tough business man. Renting a hand cart to frineds.....LOL. Gotta make...

If you are looking at a kettle for a mash tun then I would do 15 gallons for the tun only. Gives you more room for larger beers. The boil kettle 10 gallons is all you need for 5 gallon batches. That is what I use. I have a 15 gallon mash tun and two ten gallon kettles for boil and sparge water.

Let me know what you find.

I just ordered the 2V system, I been running 120V on my kettle and Tun so this is going to really speed up the process. Very excited to get it and break it in.

Yes, unless you want to split your mash the tun capacity limits the amount of grain. Even the above was done in a 15 gallon kettle. Depending on which system you are looking at. Most are 10 gallons.

IMO it is driven by two things. What consumers (of mass) want. If I am small brewery and I make styles like Hef, Porter, Pilsner (which is taboo because of big beer companies) etc no one will come. Consumers right now want hazy NEIPA or some fruit cereal beer. We may not like it but that is the...

I started extract like most, moved to a three kettle propane system that I used for years, wanted to be able to brew inside so I moved to a BIAB system now I am back to a three kettle electric setup. The BIAB is quicker for sure. You are only heating up one kettle. I went back to the bigger...