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Actually it should be 1.019 because the warmer wort the less dense it is.

Ty but I think it's ok now. No problem in about 10 hours.

That's the temp on the side of the bucket. I can imagine that the wort at the core is warmer but probably not by a whole lot. I may take the fermenter down stairs as it's a few degrees cooler.

72 deg. I have it under control now. I had to clean the airlock twice but now it's doing fine.

Thanks I was getting concerned.

Have Krausen coming out of my econolock gas release I need to know if this is something to be concerned with.

IF YOU USE YOUR TURKEY FRYER, & it's aluminum, you need to condition first by boiling water in it until the inside takes on a gray patina. Otherwise aluminum will come out into your beer & that won't be good for your brain unless you like drooling & crapping yourself. No steel spoons with...

Well since the SG is a measure of the density of the liquid. A number of things can throw it off. Most hydrometers are supposed to read at 60 deg. F. So if the temp is warmer than 60 when the OG is taken you will subtract .003 from the reading for every 10 degrees warmer because the liquid will...

I really didn't figure their would be a problem but I didn't know for sure since this is my 3rd attempt at making beer (2nd successful so far) & I try to do everything by the book as much as possible.

Yeah hogwash is right, It's all grain & while I've never done all grain before it seems to me that all grain, specialty or not, would go in the same grain bag to steep. Just make sure the grains aren't all bunched up in the grain bag so that more of it comes in contact with the water

I guess we will find out in a few weeks

Yep that's what you steep. Actually recipes are pretty easy to read after you know some terminology & the names for various ingredients & know what their for

Ty

Honey malt, crystal & Munich are specialty grains

The 7# two row is 7 lbs. Of cracked 2 row malted barley the cascade & Amarillo are hops, the honey is added after you turn the burner off , & the other oz's are specialty grains. I would. Take your OG & after a few days check the gravity again after a few days to see if the OG has changed much...

Pretty sure the best brew kits take the 2.5 gallon boil into account. They're designed to be pretty much fool proof if you follow the directions exactly

If you read further on the instructions you'll see that you'll be adding another 2.5 gallons when you transfer to the primary

I would still bottle brush because if their is stubborn debris in the bottle your more likely to get it out & have a beer go bad

I haven't been brewing long but if you're looking at a recipe, ounces of grains will be specialty grains. Those should be put in a steeping bag obviously. LME or DME should be treated like normal I would think ( add after specialty grains have steeped) etc.

So yesterday I made another 5 gal. batch. While transferring to the primary an acquaintance of mine was helping me filter the wort & he spilled a small amount of hop dregs into it. Now I know the beer is going to ferment just fine but is this likely to change the characteristics of the beer by much?