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At the scale I'd be doing this, I think 'harm' is far too strong a term, but I appreciate the thoughts - I really think the largest issue is with gifting the beer since it is not used for my own consumption. Regulations and such are another thing entirely. And I am. I'm trying to explore a...

Good point about the health issues. To be clear, I'd plan on reporting the profit on the GRAIN sales to the state. The customer would then gift the grain back to me and I'd gift them the beer. It sounds wacky, but this state works in odd ways. We have a lot of dry towns- they can't have...

I know there have been threads about whether or not people sell their beer to friends, family, etc - even people starting nanobreweries and whatnot. I'm hoping this question is a little different. I've been brewing for a few years, and just like most of you, it's starting to become a pretty...

I don't have a problem with it at all. Though I would hope that a nanobrewer selling their beer has an interest in improving any recipe they make towards their own tastes. We're all making clones, really. Brewing beer has been around for millenia and brewers have used various tricks...

BIAB will be great for this because you don't need to worry about a stuck sparge with the wheat. I wouldn't worry about regrinding the wheat malt till you make the recipe once. It probably won't be necessary.

Hmmm. I like the idea of small batches for cheaper experimentation or if you just don't go through much beer - but my 5 gallon batches take the same amount of time (maybe less) than my 1 or 2 did. My propane burner can take a freshly sparged batch to boiling in less than 10 minutes. Strike water...

Gravity isn't all that important with extract brews because if you have the right water volume, you have the right gravity. It can be somewhat dangerous if you bottle with priming sugar before hitting FG however. With AG, gravity can vary wildly especially with bigger beers and it is very...

The other thing to add about what Golddiggie said as to leaving your hydrometer in the fermenter is that the CO2 bubbles will attach themselves to the hydrometer (just like a straw in a soda) and make it more buoyant. It will read too high. Depending on the beer and how much dissolved CO2 is...

This. I got my start brewing from Brooklyn Brewshop's 1 gallon AG kits. Fun for sure, but nearly the exact same amount of time whether you brew a gallon or 20, so I personally think the best way to go if you're looking to experiment would be to do what mux suggested. You could even do...

Are you doing a full 5 gallon batch stovetop? If you are, and you're having trouble hitting a good boil, you may want to increase your boil time to 90 minutes to ensure that you drive off the DMS from the pilsner malt. DMS smells/tastes like corn and is present moreso in pilsner than other...

I think you all are missing what okie123 said - He bought his copper at a plumbing supply store. NOT Home Depot or Lowe's. That was his point. I don't know when he bought it, but I'm sure its still more than $15 now. Copper prices are nuts.

I just threw up in my mouth a little.

You don't top off a full wort boil. That's the whole point. Your mash and sparge total far more water than you want in your fermenter. This is to maximize extraction efficiency, knowing that you will lose a particular amount of volume to the boil, chill, etc. A full boil also maximizes hop...

Oh yeah, totally agree on that. I was more piggybacking your comment than adding an alternative.

Just soak the rice hulls in water for 20 minutes before you add them to the mash tun along with the rest of the grain. That way they don't absorb any mash water.

I don't see why that wouldn't work, but I don't know how quick it would be. There is far more thermal mass in a pot of boiling wort than in a CPU/GPU. I'd be interested to see how it works though. First I'd try it in a pot of boiling water to be sure it maintains its integrity. If that seems...

For all grain batches, you typically do not add water unless you over boil and wind up with too little wort or if your gravity is too high. As for your cooling question, that would work I suppose, but I'd worry about getting any of that ice water in the small pot into your wort. I'd honestly...

My water treatment plant also uses sodium hyperchlorite (chlorine) - My hardness is just a little less than yours, which is relatively soft. I just fill my HLT and MLT night before I brew to let the chlorine outgas. I brew a hefeweizen that is to die for. I think you'll be fine.

You don't need to dump the bottles. Do a search here - People have cracked open the bottles, kept in a clean environment and allowed to gas out for some time, then recapped.

Originally Porters used to be made with 100% brown malt, but I'm not sure that brown malt is the same as today's brown.. It could convert itself, though it did create quite a bit of non-fermentables.