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Personally, I would definitely age the beer fully carbonated. This is one of the things that help keep bugs out, if I recall. It does not have to be refrigerated, of course. In fact, if you aren't going to be drinking it for a while, it is possible to use priming sugar right in the keg (but...

If you could pull a small sample out however you measured your gravity -- is the wort funky or sour at all? I have never been in this situation, so I might be completely talking out my arse here, but if it is still sweet and not funky, I would be tempted to re-boil it for just 10 minutes or so...

Although my experience isn't extremely recent (about a year ago), I will say that I am extremely happy with the quality of the items I bought from BH (a RIMS tube and some assorted tri-clamp stuff). I do remember that it took a while to get, but it was only a couple weeks, and once I got it, it...

My last couple 5 gallon batches were both in the range of $14 - 16.. one a copper ale and one an Irish red. Neither one has much hops in it and I used dry yeast, or it would have been a little pricier. My LHBS also has good prices on grain, which helps greatly. Brewing something like a dubbel...

Using a plate chiller, the wort gets to pitching temperature really fast. I haven't actually timed it, but I would say about 10 or 15 minutes from flameout until the airlock goes in.

Not a clue really... a rough estimation would put me somewhere in the 200's though. I have been brewing beer for about 10 years now, and I'm one of the ones that haven't kept records since the first year or so. I am a lot more interested in the process of brewing than the particular recipe I'm...

I built an electromagnetic flow sensor to do this. They are nice because there is nothing poking into the liquid and the temperature doesn't really matter. I haven't integrated it into the brewery yet, but it worked pretty well on the bench. The idea is to have the flow in GPM displayed on the...

MSEE here I design automated production equipment and parts of it (mainly PC boards and other electronics). There is a lot of stuff I do at work that makes it into my brewery, and vice versa...

I just did this earlier today. I overshot the batch volume, and it filled the keg to the brim! I could hear it bubbling in there as it carbonated... lol Fortunately I was able to drink it down to a safe level without letting any beer go up the gas line :rockin:

I've found that keg lube helps immensely.

I just did exactly this upgrade the other day! You'll need: -The faucet itself -Some kind of handle -A shank that's long enough to go through whatever it needs to (your keezer wall?) -That little wrench that you use to connect the shank to the faucet -A hose clamp and, assuming your shanks...

I'm completely sure you can build a strong enough brew stand out of aluminum extrusion, without having to weld anything. I would definitely put some thought into the heat shielding though, as the other posters are saying. The company I work for uses obscene amounts of this stuff: www.8020.net...

I had a problem like OP's, but it was with a brand new regulator. The pressure would slowly creep up to about 30PSI no matter where it was set. Like most other people have said, I was very pleased with the way Midwest resolved the issue. I just ordered a bunch more stuff from them tonight :)

Homebrew Scottish 80/ Amazing, delicious beer... Probably gonna feel it tomorrow morning though!

wow... you guys are braver than me! I'd personally recommend using a 1.25 inch blowoff hose. I've had a couple of the 3pc airlocks get shot into the ceiling already, even with the top removed.

There's nothing wrong with using DME to assist with your high gravity beers. Commercial breweries do it.

I'd be a little worried myself about using a brass RIMS tube, as brass contains lead. Not everyone agrees on how big an issue that is, but considering the amount of surface area of brass that would be in contact with your wort, it doesn't seem like a good idea. A lot of people (myself...

The motor on an 809 is definitely not strong enough to break the magnetic coupling -- it just sits there and hums. I just had this happen about a month ago.

I've had four batches that I thought were really awful, in 8 years of brewing. Of those 4, there were 2 that other people seemed to really like.. Of the two that really, truly sucked, one involved a botched mash that led to a cloudy nasty beer, and one was just kind of a goofy idea I had...

That looks to be a line filter. Its purpose is to let the 60Hz AC pass through, but block higher frequencies. Since it's a centrifuge, I'm guessing the filter is there to prevent noise from the motor drive from causing interference to other stuff you have plugged in. Is it blowing the fuse...