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I don't.. I do sanitize my hands and everything that comes in contact with the hops. My local Dr. of Hoppology told me that there is something in hops that resists bacteria. :mug:

Some yeasts top ferment more than others. Your gravity is stable, its done and time to transfer. Siphon from between the trub and the yeast on top. :mug:

IMHO; Bottled stouts seem to take longer to condition than kegged stouts. Relax..It'l be fine.. Give it a couple of weeks. :mug:

Is there still activity in the airlock? When I trasnfer to secondary, I try to transfer nothing but liquid beer. No Trub, No Floaties.. IMO Krausen should begone by the time the primary is finished. EDIT: BTW did you check this out? https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=7960

From White Labs FAQ: How should I store my yeast? Yeast should be stored in the refrigerator prior to use. Remove the yeast from the refrigerator approximately two to six hours before pitching and allow the yeast to come up to room temperature. The reason for this is to prevent a...

Courtesy: Given2Fly @ the BrewBoard. Link to entire thread 2 Liter soda bottles filled with water and frozen - Change once a day

Courtesy: Given2Fly @ the BrewBoard. Link to entire thread Temp control for ferment bucket:

After the airlock stops showing activity and the gavity stays the same for 2 or 3 days, then it is time to transfer. Whether or not you need to secondary is up to you, it won't hurt and you will have less trub to avoid putting in your bottles. :)

Nature abhores a vacuum. The natural molecular motion will mix them if there is any opening... Sorry. The extra siphon tube sounds good.

Maybe.. Maybe not... Serveral links have turned out to be evolutionary dead ends. I'm withholding judgement pending further evaluation. ie.. http://www.learner.org/channel/courses/biology/units/humev/experts/tattersall.html

Uhh Ahhh, I strongly sugest that you use only NEW panty hose, or knee highs. The color is in the material, I have never had any color leech out into the water. :drunk: :drunk:

Basically, Yes. BUT; if you are lower than expected, you can sparge a little more and boil it off to make your OG. OR; you can calculate how much DME to add to bring up your OG. After going thru the iterations /per Baron von BeeGee, you can ajust your grind and grain bill to hit your...

Hmmm, sounds like a new poll.... :rolleyes:

Kinda :off: but - If you are looking for heavy weight bottles for reuse and like a good stout, try Lion Stout. http://www.ratebeer.com/beer/sinha-stout/3061/ Good export stout, darn good bottles for re-use!! *We now return your computer to the Beer topic at hand!!*

Have you talked with Art @ Cap 'n Cork? http://www.geocities.com/capandcork/ I purchased 1 lb of Pils extralight DME @ $3.39. I know that he discounts for volume. His everyday prices are very good. Lots of knowlege in that shop. :mug:

HAS HB Bills' back

Found this on another forum. Online Brew Class for Beginers: http://forums.egullet.org/index.php?showtopic=85652

Doesn't it depend on the style of beer that is in the keg; and on your preference?? Carb to the style and keg temp, adjust the beer hose length to match. Almost all poly hoses are food grade and available at the local Hdw/box store. I would avoid the thin vinal - they kink too easy...

I totally agree!! However, I have met with some who do not. They are very happy with their beer. The chermans hav vays to make you brrew!!

AS mentioned by david 42 and another thread, sorry can't rember the thread, "Sometimes the Style is the Yeast". I think that more of the liquid strains are going to be released in a dry package. At this time, most of the dry yeasts are fairly neutral, which is great for a lot of brew...