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I believe that the 099 needs to be stepped up to the ABV and/or sugar level of your brew. ie - Make a big starter with a 1.04 wort and areate the starter. When it slows, add 1.06 wort and pump in more O2. When it slows, add 1.08 wort and pump in more O2. When you match the SG, (or the ABV)...

I agree with the yeast producing the sulphur smell. Proper fermenting temps for the yeast strain can minimize the smell. I tend to ferment at the lower end of the temprange with lots of hops, so I don't smell anything but the hop!!:) :mug:

I go with the group that says "Brew what you like to drink" for your first brew. But, if you enjoy a summer beer - wheat, cream ale, or a lighter ale; thay are also a good first brew. :mug:

Congats!! Don't forget to run a pound of cheap grain thru it to remove the oil! :drunk: :mug:

If you have not already read John Palmer's "How To Brew" Verson 1 online, it is a good read. You can also buy version 3 at the LHBS, or John's home page has links. As far as equipment, check out Denny's Page with pix and "How To". :mug:

IMHO; gravity points are a guide. For example- American Barleywine BJCP 1999 OG.... 1.080 - 1.125 FG..... 1.020 - 1.035 Try buying the same beer 4 months apart. Trying to get different batches. Pour a hydro sample of each - degas and warm to room temp. Taste each bottle...

A lot of people have made kegorators out of chest freezers!! Link to conversion thread :mug:

Little extra info - Good rare earth magnets are in old dead hard drives, and the price is right!!! Don't get your fingers pinched!! :mug:

The efficiency is lower when doing a high gravity beer. The 3 solutions that I know of are: 1. Increase Grain (cheap) 2. Sparge with more water. (Tannins?) 3. Get more grain and make two beers. (Mash twice, make high gravity brew from 1st runnings, lower gravity brew from 2nd.) :) :mug:

Leave the normal headspace.. Ideally it should be slightly overcarbed as you fill the bottle. The headspace will outgas some of the CO2. Besides, why give the judges something to wonder about?? :mug:

Good reason to "prohibit" that beer?? :) :) :mug:

Let the yeast warm to room temp before adding to starter!! :mug:

Without a CP filler, I would: 1. Get the keg colder 2. increase CO2 a couple of #s (couple of days to increase carb level & make up for lost CO2 during transfer) 3. Chill/freeze bottles 4. Put a piece of tubing over the end of your tap,long enough to reach the bottom of bottle. 5. Decrease...

So instead of 2 - 3 weeks to carb @70F (Ales), in the mini fridge it will take 6 -7 (?) weeks?? :mug:

I haven't done a lager, but will lager yeast work in the fridge?

I think most sodas are carbed @ 30psi. In beer that much CO2 could create carbonic acid and one heck of a bitter off flavor. Have you thought about making a carb cap? You would have to use plastic bottles. :mug:

SHHhhh, I don't have any idea where the idophor stain on the counter top came from!!:drunk: :mug:

I would have stepped up the starter the day before. Yeast pitched right out of the fridge can go into thermal shock (per White Labs). The yeast may still be asleep, wait another 24 hrs.. Repitch if necessary, dry or liquid. I'll bet the alcohol smell was just the yeast doing it's job...

You are correct!! But; gently swirling the bucket bucket will rouse the yeast and give them a chance to finish their job. No aeration involved.. :mug:

Oh oh, Big words, I haven't tasted yeasty whatever, so I'll drop out!! But; if you have yeast autowhatever in AG, wouldn't you get it w/extract also?? :mug: