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With all the fanfare over bacon vodka, I'd like to see how it fares as a beer ingredient. After all, I have yet to discover anything that bacon cannot do :rockin: I'm brewing a big (1.110) scotch ale next weekend to let it age all summer, and am considering adding the following (as well as...

20 bucks is a fantastic deal! And a turkey fryer pot would be handy for something I'm sure. The one that came with my burner was aluminum, so I just use it to heat water. Brews in the garage are so much more fun, too :)

If it was extract, did you stir the top-off water sufficiently? Did you make sure there were no bubbles on the hydrometer? Was the beer at room temperature? If yes, yes, and yes... see if your hydrometer reads 1.000 in 60 degree water.

Two weeks does indeed sound like more than enough time for a Wit to finish. What OG, temperature, and yeast strain?

If you do dry hop the brew, keep in mind that it will add flavor and aroma, but no bittering because the hops will not be isomerized. So if the beer ends up being too malty or sweet, dry-hopping will not change that. That being said, I always recommend dry-hopping! :)

Do it. 170 will not sufficiently isomerize hops, denature enzymes, remove DMS, hit a hot break, modify PH, or most of the other reasons we boil in the first place. Propane burners are a godsend for us stove-top people.

If you are going to experiment in the primary, be careful not to disturb the bed of CO2 that is currently resting on top of your beer. If you're super concerned about oxidation, you can use a can of inert gas, commonly called "Wine Preserver" to re-create your bed of CO2, but to be honest I...

Here's a decent thread on this: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/plastic-bottle-carboy-105037/

Unless you live on a space station, the boil temps should be sufficient for sanitization. The main purposes of a good rolling boil are: 1. Sanitize the wort and kill undesirable bugs 2. Evaporate sulfur, ketones, and other nasties 3. Utilize the hop alpha-acids to make your tasty bittering...

No problem - sounds like you did the right thing. When it is time to bottle, heat up a small saucepan of water and dissolve your priming sugar at a rate of 1oz per gallon of beer. Cool, dump into your bucket with a spigot, and then rack your beer into the spigot-bucket. You're then ready to bottle.

I did a bunch of research for a chocolate stout a few months ago and discovered that many brewers have passionate opinions on what kind of chocolate to use. My conclusion - there are no right or wrong ways, just different ways. The following advice helped me immensely: 1. Higher alcohol...

+1 to making your own immersion chiller - copper tubing generally comes packaged as a 1' diameter coil to begin with, how easy is that? It's like someone had us home brewers in mind! I made mine for about $25 and it works spectacularly, if you are interested I will post pics/instructions.

11409.5 + 10 = 11419.5

I'll second this, citrus (especially sour) candies helped me through the first two weeks - smoke free now for 1 year (after smoking for 10 years). Congrats on quitting! Oh man you are going to enjoy beer flavors so much more in a month!

All-grain is certainly on my task-list, and something I am working toward piece-by-piece. There is, however, a large community of extract brewers who have not had this problem. If you're out there, speak up! Are you using gas stoves?! I'd like to pin this down to a cause. Thanks,

I wouldn't think that 5 oz of priming sugar is too much... I've used as much as 7 oz in brews that I wanted to be very carbed (belgian wheats, triples). 4 weeks is enough for normal-gravity beers, but 1.083 is pretty high, what sort of temps did it ferment/carb at? I have been leaving...

I've tried Munton's, Briess, and whatever comes with the Brewer's Best kits. I'm starting to think that it has something to do with the electric stove generating "hot-spots" in the malt and caramelizing some sugars, as amylase enzyme seems to fix it. Has everyone else having this problem been...

Have had this same situation repeatedly... not to say that my brews have been bad, most of them have been quite good actually, but I've brewed about 15 beers with FGs between 1.016 and 1.024. I've tried muntons, safale, wyeast vials and wyeast activators. I've tried normal and late extract...

Batches: 9949 + 5 = 9954 Hangovers: 3 (gotta start small, ya know?)

First batch was a brewer's best Arrogant B@stard clone, I replaced all the hops with simcoe, dry-hopped it, and called it "Simcoe B@stard". It was great! Now if I could only duplicate it... :)