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and since my faucet sprung another leak this time at the shaft seal... I called Perlick and received the following size information: Perlick 424SS Shaft O-Ring: Dash 202 ID 1/4" (.234") CS 1/8" (.139")

A 5 gallon batch in a 15.5 Gal Keggle, is really pushing the lower end of the mash tun. I had to mash in very thin in order to get a drain. Double or as the poster above suggests a 5 Gal cooler mash tun. I use the yeast cake from this for barley wine or strong ales.

Your fine. Positive co2 pressure, co2 blanket, etc.... Using 4 buckets 1 with a gamma seal which seals every time. 2 are Ale Pails with no gaskets and they seal fine most of the time. Final bucket no matter what I do I've been unable to get ever a full seal and now wish I never...

Eric I think so. I'm going up to my local Tru-Value later to look for them. For the 425 yes all three are the same unit, it's the 525's that have 2 different O-Rings. I also realize I forgot to put the composition material is... N-7044 Material: O-Ring Composition N-7044 : 70...

OK a call to Perlick (duh should have done that second) and I learned: 425 faucets use 3 O-Rings 1/2" ID and 1/16 CS (Cross Section) 525 faucets us 2 O-Rings 1/2" ID and 1/16 CS (Cross Section) AND (line disconnected) Hope this helps someone else...

OK let me ask this... are the same o-rings used in a Perlick 525 as are in a 425?

Does anyone know what size O-Rings are used on the Perlick 425 faucets? Mine developed a small occasional drip, so far I've been told to replace the O-rings to correct the old unit... thanks,

Yeah the 'dirt' is now in the wort and in your gut.... I hose mine off and hang dry, on occasion I'll hit it with a SS scrubby to break through the beer stone build up. Every year I give it a 20 minute soak in Star San or vinegar. I've used the same IC for 6 years and no issue yet.

I think thats the same one I used for years. I followed the SoFC guide for the parts and wiring guide. Worked like a champ... I'll admit, I paid full price as my tstat was not working... turned out a wire nut popped off and the unit wouldn't power up. So ther it sat for 6 yrs until I...

Silver solder maybe?

Dude, that blows!

OK looks like they updated their site and menus. http://www.repairclinic.com/ http://www.repairclinic.com/Whirlpool-Refrigerator-Gasket-Or-Seal-Parts Also the help you get their is great. Pick up the phone and call, they will get you to the correct part in no time at all...

Repair Clinic http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Refrigerator-Door-Gasket/1468987 I did my parents Sub Zero and a neighbors Frigidaire.... Easy, very easy.

Excellent idea on on the hook on a metal rod. I simply hung it over and used a cheap plastic clip to hold the wire. Please post on the straightening of the metal portion of the probe. I'd love to have that one straightened as well.

I used a Walmart thermo with a remote probe. Used heat shrink on the probe to seal the SS probe and the wire. The first one got liquid down the inside of the probe as its a crimp seal. I'm sure the little chinnese mfg didn't intend the probes to get soaked in wort.

I'd add some sort of spacer to lift it off the kettle bottom. As for above or below the spigot, I'd say it really doesn't matter however you need to think about a few things... Too high and you have a lot of dead space (space where grains and water don't meet) Too low and your dead space...

That's a bit personal and TMI ;) Very cool especially since I've been plagued by the loos shanks for a while and can't get them tight enough..

Accidental Double Post

Have the video camera rolling we see the 2011 You Tube hit of the year coming on.. But if youi plug the hole from the inside the plug can't be knocked out and the pressure would be pressing it back into the hole... That said you would need to be concerned about knocking it in....

I'd try the silver solder..... :mug: