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you can often find carboys on craigslist or at thrift shops for really cheap--you need a container w/a small opening to avoid oxidation during aging and definitely don't want to use plastic containers that were designed for single use (you'll also probably need a capacity of 5-6 gallons). As far...

I was wondering if anyone has any thoughts on bottling/carbing and aging vs. leaving it in carboys and aging? I know that "bulk aging" is supposedly better, but 23 L is hardly "bulk" compared to the industrial scale! Anyone have any thoughts? I'm racking my cider to secondary tonight (after 3...

I think blending comes right before stabilization, just before bottling.

The yeast aren't very active at that stage of fermentation, so even if you had an ester-prone yeast (belgian, white wine) you're probably fine. In general, yeast for white wines tend to produce more esters than those for red wines. Champagne yeasts are also pretty neutral. I wouldn't worry about...

Yeah, AO is the only really reliable way to go. However, it's expensive and not really convenient for the home winemaker. I'd use the titrets as an approximation and just use logic on your additions. One of my books from the American Wine Society says that if you add 20 ppm for each operation...

although the yeast ferment the priming sugar really fast, it takes time for the resulting Co2 to dissolve back into the beer...hence the 3 weeks....ah, patience!

high bicarbonate in the finished beer would probably be most evident in having a really low efficiency (which you have...). Have you considered adding calcium chloride to your mash? The calcium binds the bicarbonate and precipitates it, thereby lowering your mash pH. If you have lots of calcium...

Radical brewing talks about the different types of sugars (including turbinado) and the resulting flavour profiles...check it out!

I'd try to dissolve the yeast in water right before you use it. When you dissolve it in water, you're basically waking it up from hibernation and if you leave it in the fridge with no food, it won't be as healthy as if you had just dissolved it. If you're using EC1118 or something, it's pretty...

most wine yeasts are quite tolerant of SO2--usually up to the 200 ppm range, so if you're going with EC1118 or something, the yeast will be fine.

as long as the stir plate is keeping the yeast from settling out, it`s doing its job.

I`m a grad student in a yeast lab and we always filter sterilize our glycerol solutions--you can get filters that screw onto the ends of syringes and then you just run the solution through the filter. I definitely wouldn`t use an open container without some kind of sterilization--plus, you...

I went AG after one batch and never looked back. I spent a lot of time planning and calculating before brew day (volumes of water, temps etc) so I just had to follow my own directions and not do too much overthinking or second-guessing. Definitely make sure you have 2 large (20 L) pots for the...

yikes! sugar water doesn't have any vitamins/minerals for the yeast! definitely go with DME!

If you're making a standard brew (ie not high alcohol, <1.06)... Add 1 cup DME (and 1/2 tsp of yeast nutrient, if you have it) to 1 liter of water and boil for 10 minutes. Transfer to a sanitized 2L or greater flask, bottle, or container, let cool to ~80F and pitch yeast (for pitching into...

Did you do a protein rest? Palmer says that long(er) protein rests can mess with your head retention. Any detergents on your bottles or equipment?

I know this is basic, but...Did you spin your hydrometer and account for temp difference?

Did you use a yeast starter and if so, did it contain yeast nutrients? This guy says that amino acid-based yeast nutrients can contribute a metallic flavor... http://www.maltosefalcons.com/tech/MB_Raines_Guide_to_Yeast_Culturing.php

certain types of yeast nutrients can add a metallic taste to your beer...usually plain wort has more than enough nutrients for the yeasties as long as you pitch enough! However, yeast nutrients are recommended for yeast starters since they're growing fast and need lots of vitamins ;)

It doesn't really matter...some people don't want the (probably) bad tasting oxidized starter in their brew, so they decant most of it off. Off-flavors/colors are probably more of a risk if you're making a lighter beer. Other people don't think the small volume makes much of a difference, so...