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good suggestions from the above posters. It could be a very small leak so a recharge may get ya back in operation for quit a long time.

your lag time could be quit long since you will have to wait for the beer to warm up, then the yeast will need to wake up, plus you under pitched. Don't be surprised if it takes a couple days to see activity.

what is the starting and finish gravity.

mash conversion time really increases as you lower the temp down under 150f. Thats why with many beers that are very light bodied such as pilsners the recommended mash time to be safe increases to 90 minutes. I have mashed at 147f many times and I always let it go for 90 min to be safe.

I used 3/4x10 and had no warp or cupping issues. I have had the kegerator in service for 2 years so that should not be a problem. I did poly the collar inside and out. The benefit of thinner material is weight since my collar is hinged to the freezer and lifts with the lid.

3/4 of a gallon is about 15% too much volume so I imagine it will throw off your readings by that much.

no wonder you have such inconsistency, if your recipe is for 5 gals and you over shot by 3/4 of a gallon your hydro readings will always be lower than anticipated. need to get your volume and boil off calculations honed in on.

I always take readings but its probably not necessary since I have brewed most of my recipes many times. Plus I keg and don't have to worry about bottle bombs.

this is true, but sometimes the process of making a strain dry will slightly alter the yeast. I have used 34/70 in darker lagers and it was fine but there are stronger malt flavors to hide off tastes that a yeast may throw off. In a very light beer like a BO Pils there is not much to hide a...

report back on your impressions. I'm curious how the 34/70 dry yeast compares, it would be nice to save money for my next Bo Pils if the results are good.

tilten another bo pils.:drunk:

since the reason you take hydrometer readings is to see how much sugar the yeast has consumed, I'd say defiantly yes.

just use your hydrometer its the only way to be sure its done. 2 same readings in a 3 day period.

just be aware that too small of a gap could cause stuck sparges. I would make certain the problem is not something else in your process. Did you check the accuracy of your thermometer? if the thermometer is not accurate you may not be mashing at a temp that gives you complete conversion. are...

low watt density won't scorch the wort. The low density elements are longer with more surface area so they don't need to get as hot.

for doing a primary only fermentation, ferment to completion in your bucket. After ferment is complete which is two same hydrometer readings in a three day period, let the beer condition on the yeast cake for another 7-10 days to let the yeast clean up after itself and to let the beer clear...

doing a secondary is optional some brewers do them and others don't. I'm in the skip the secondary camp. The only good reason to do a secondary IMHO is if you want to add fruits or the style of beer requires a lengthy conditioning stage such as a lambic. By doing just a primary you take less...

totally disagree here. Too many experienced brewers have been trying to teach new to brewing to use hydrometers and be patient and don't rush the process. To set a specific time table only confuses and perpetuates false procedures.

I like summit as a bittering hop and use amarillo and simcoe in the later additions with just a small amount of chinook to add a little bite.

measure out my hops, get out every thing in prep for boil, crank up the tunes.