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:mug: Yes, thats why I said equipment :D

The word most often use is "Sanitized" san·i·tize transitive verb \ˈsa-nə-ˌtīz\ : to make (something) free from dirt, infection, disease, etc., by cleaning it : to make (something) sanitary : to make (something) more pleasant and acceptable by taking things that are...

My last batch I bottled I capped 6 of um in clears for just that reason. Each of the clear bottles were wrapped in a brown paper bag... ala street drunk look :D But it was great to bring one of those out at status check time and have a look with a bright light in the background. As well...

:rockin: Exactly.. it's not my concern for bacteria in tap water... I drink it, I cook with it, and in 20 or so batches of beer using it, not had an infection. BUT I know from my local tap water supplier, the water has chloramine... yes it can be treated for... I changed to packaged spring...

I ruined 2 batches using city water, due to chloramines. Never again, either treat with campden or use spring or RO water. Ive done both now and had great results.. The spring water is nice, as I chill (let it just start to ice up) a gal of it, and then dump that in post boil / wort chiller...

Sure looks to be pre hopped LME https://store.coopers.com.au/shop/product/thomas-coopers-ipa-refill-pack/ if so,,,get it warm enough to pasteurize,, boil is really over kill,, and boiling for more then 10 is super duty overkill. Where did your centennial hops come from? They don't look to be...

As long as it is unhopped extract, yes..you c an add it late boil (so do not boil the beer in a kit pre hopped LME wort like this ) I personally dont taste a difference, but I do SEE a difference when adding 2/3 to 3/4 of the LME / DME in just before flame out. I add about 1 lb DME per gallon...

Your video is set to Private :(

Beersmith2 has CALC BUILT IN.

:ban: Thank you// 68 it is for this batch then

Not arguing, just asking... US-05 data sheet shows I've been aiming for the lower end, with wort temps in the "ideal" range about 16.5 dec c (61.7) I guess i assumed those that make the stuff listed "ideal" temps that would impart what the yeast is advertised for "American ale yeast...

Thanks I had 1 oz of Columbus (Tomahawk) 14.2% for FWH and I do a 20/80 % for DME in the boil/ late addition. So 2lb went in at the start of boil.. 6lb went in at 40 min (20 remaining) The 60 Min steep is what most of the recipes I have used show, so even when i do one on my own,, i sue...

well it's brewed now,,,,, so thanks anyway :confused: OG 1.081.. bit more than the Est.. but it had a lot of fine hop material in it... few weeks and we will see what it's at.

Sometimes I think established brewers with 6, 8, 10 ect buckets, carboys or several conical fermentors sometimes forget the NEW brewer may only have ONE 6 gal bucket and ONE 5 gal carboy.. So they may have a NEED to rack a batch to secondary vessel just so they can start another batch. :mug...

Weekend? Oh heck no... not waiting that long.. I gots me an empty ferm chamber... 1st thing in the morning after coffee.... Biermuncher Tits Up IPA speciality grain / Extract clone. #31 days till first pint pulled...... ... guess I should wait till I brew to start counting the days...

In addition to the above... What yeast? What are your base holding temps? and what is the range of change?

On this forum I think you'll find most will say Leave it in the primary till done, unless you have a specific need to rack to secondary,...like dry hopping, adding other adjuncts, or just to free up your only primary fermentor. When you do find the need to use a secondary fermenator.. use one...

I use a flow meter $60 new http://www.davis.com/Product/Oxygen_flowmeter_1_4_8_LPM_1_8_NPT_F_inlet/YX-32900-64?referred_id=3388&gclid=CJe9qMikq7sCFTJp7AodJkQAnQ I found one used for $10 at a pawn shop

The high pressure gauge is like an idiot light on your car for oil pressure.. It tells you when you have gas pressure and when your out.. It can not tell you how MUCH liquid CO2 you have in the tank. You can weigh it and know for sure. You can remove the regulator, and open the valve a 1/2...

hmmm, no one.... huh.