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On the hot side of the brewing process (everything about wort creation) you don't need to be sanitary at all since everything will be boiled. In fact, there's no point as grain is not sanitary anyway. It can (and does) have a certain amount of mouse hairs and even feces in it. I use QDs myself...

Correct. Use a PID in manual for the boil, in automatic to hold a specific temp. For what it's worth, with the huge increase in New England style IPAs and APAs, doing hop stands is getting more and more popular (that's where hops are steeped for long durations at specific temps after the boil)...

I don't have that issue. My setup gets to the set temperature and then stabilizes/stays at that temp. Maybe your auto-tune did not work correctly? (That said, auto-tune is typically not required as our setups are "highly dampened" meaning that it takes a lot of time/power to make a change to...

One of the reason I used a DPDT (octal) relay in the design is because relays are the most common. You don't save any money by going to a "simpler" relay since 99% of the relay parts are required in all types and simpler SPST or SPDT are just just not as common because a DPDT can always be used...

Keep in mind that heat sinks don't really have a 'current' rating. What you're reading is simply the manufacturer trying to give you a rough idea on how it can be used. They probably assume better than average cooling conditions too. The better the cooling the easier it is in the SSRs and...

+1 If doing a HERMS setup I'd recommend using the volume of water you expect to use at an average mash temp (ex: 154F). Detailed step by step in my auto-tune instructions. Good luck! Kal

Post a wiring diagram and lots of pictures. Hard to really understand otherwise. Kal

Your control panel should also be grounded. Everything electrical should be grounded. Not just heating elements. You want the control panel enclosure chassis to be electrically grounded for safety reasons the same way any power tool or appliance chassis is grounded. Grounding means that the...

I used to do that with the stove while the basement brewery was being built... didn't go over too well. ;) Kal

Just curious what you don't like about the gap? (I'm assuming you're referring to my design... ;) ). Kal

Correct - most low voltage DC stuff that comes with a power supply will often have one that works anywhere from ~80 to 250V AC. Specs here however mention that the power supply it ships with can only accept 100-130 VAC / 50-60Hz. No reason why you couldn't use a simple step down transformer...

I'm assuming you mean to ask: How long does it take to heat 7 gallons to boiling with 4500W. There are many online calculators available that can give you rise times for the amount of power you're using. Here are two examples: http://www.brewheads.com/powerrequired.php...

+1 I usually recommend 4500W for a system meant for making 5 gallons beer (you start with up to 2 gallons more than that at the start of the boil). This means a 240V setup is usually required. Good luck! Kal

CPVC = Chlorinated polyvinyl chloride What most simply call "vinyl hose". Looks like this: Kal

That's part of the battle! Glad to hear you've found a setup that works best for you. Happy brewing! Kal

What did you not like about it? Kal

Sessionable version of my Electric Pale Ale (recipe and brewing process here). Citrusy and refreshing and only 4.3% ABV! Ok, so not much beer left, but I really liked the lacing. ;) Kal

50 amp / 1 bbl pre-built control panel from TheElectricBrewery.com. Drives 4 heating elements (2 in the boil, 2 in the HLT). (Pictures originally posted in my Instagram account) Kal

Water chemistry (IMHO) plays a big part in getting this beer right, ensuring the flavour's as low as possible. I poked around in the earlier posts in this thread but don't remember seeing where you posted the full recipe/process you ended up doing, including water adjustments. What did you...

Measure at higher (non 1.0000) as well just to make sure things are ok there as well. While less likely, it's possible that the paper inside the hydrometer isn't linear/to scale. Good that you accounted for temp too - not everyone knows that hydrometers are calibrated to one specific temp...