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Nice! I do something similar (albeit less fancy!) in that my mill sits directly on top of my bucket and there's no gaps or spaces for dust to get out. A video: https://www.instagram.com/p/BDtnszMIKl2/?taken-by=theelectricbrewery Good luck with the Helles! (I need to make that one again - it's...

+1 to this. There's so much cheap junk on the gas/serving side of beer it's not even funny. If you want good stuff that'll last a lifetime, look at what bars use. Kal

I wouldn't change the avatar. I like it! ;) @02RedWS6TA: Are you Justin F? I've been talking to someone that contacted me on Facebook that has an all-in-one Colorado brewing setup (electric BIAB) that was getting scorching with the element that was originally supplied, they tried my 804 SS...

Thanks! I've gotten a lot from HBT and other forums and 'paying back' by documenting what I've done in case others want to follow or critique is the least I can do... I use temperature strips on the outside of the buckets (always have) they're surprisingly accurate and show the actual wort...

Sorry! You're right - it may not be recirculating. Kal

That's what I'm wondering myself. In a BIAB setup you recirculate past the element and possibly stuff settles out on it over time then when you go to fire it 100% later for the boil you've got some fine sediment stuck to it? Not sure. Kal

Looking very quickly, it looks that both were BIAB setups that seemed to have issues with lots of grain particulates causing the burning... (?) Kal

Interesting. Were they all longer ripple style elements? I've seen some off-shore sellers sell what they called ULWD but given the wattage and the length, there's no way they can actually be ULWD. (These were the same sellers that were willing to sell me elements that they would stamp as UL /...

That depends 100% on how *you* like to brew, the process *you* like to use. There is no one better or worse way that makes better (or worse) beer. Like skraeling said, it doesn't matter what we think. It matters how you brew / what your needs are. Good luck! Kal

Ha! Yeah, I noticed the same when you wrote it but didn't want to say anything... ;) Makes sense! FWIW It's good to check any high current connection points from time to time, just to be sure. Kal

Gotcha - Makes sense. Thanks dunnry! Kal

Ah! Ok, if not using SSBrewtech parts maybe it's cheaper elsewhere. That said, are you sure about $41.50? You need a 1.5" flange with barb on it ($12), the reducer ($20), and two sets of tri-clover clamps and gaskets (not one) at 3" at $7.50 and 1.5" at $5.50 plus $2 for gaskets, for a total of...

Yup. Not only is it less height to do it the way I did but it's also less cost (less parts) and less tri-clover clamps and gaskets to deal with (so less work too). Really? I wouldn't think it would make much of a difference and the extra volume you'd get for krausen to sit in from the reducer...

Heat is created when current flows through an area that is too small to handle the amount of current. This can happen: (a) with a loose connection where only a few strands are making contact because the wire is not properly tightened/fastened, and/or (b) a wire that is too small to handle...

I tend to get everything set up the night before as well (milling the grain, measuring the hops and water adjustments). If I really want to get a kick start to the brewing day I'll pre-heat the HLT water (usually ~20 gallons as I brew 10 gallon batches) to about 15 degrees above my strike temp...

If you do build something like this, make sure it has tons of safety features built in. You don't want to burn your house down because a hose popped off or was loose (or similar). Kal

Agreed! It's why I renew my membership every year! This is pretty much my 'go to' brewing forum. Kal

Correct. Those are capacitive screens and they do not work well (or not at all) when moisture is present. When I used to design using touchscreen in a plant floor environment where moisture and gloves are used, I'd use resistive screens with added protection. (Not cheap). Kal

Most likely the false bottom and/or too fine of a crush. Not to derail this thread too much but if you like, start a thread over at my forum at TheElectricBrewery.com and post some pictures/more info and we can help. Cheers! Kal

According to Blichmann's website, the dip tube is indeed 1/2" OD. The dip tube is really short. It's not going to have a large effect on flow, especially on my setup (which I'm assuming you're asking about?) given that I have almost 75 feet of tubing/pipe after it including a 50 foot HERMS coil...