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Electric Hop Candy Jr - my new 'sessionable' New England Pale Ale. Recipe here. This is a lower alcohol 'sessionable' version of my Electric Hop Candy NEIPA. Same soft and pillowy mouthfeel full of juicy fruit-forward hop flavours and aromas, but with less alcohol (5% ABV instead of 6.5%)...

My last brew day pics and videos (brewed Electric Hop Candy Jr - a New England style Pale Ale): VIDEO: Making the yeast starter during one of the experimental batches (part 1: boiling water). VIDEO: Making the yeast starter during one of the experimental batches (part 2: pitching yeast)...

Pints of Electric Hop Candy Jr. (a sessionable version of my NEIPA) Kal

@TheLostBeer: JMathie77's setup is based on our TheElectricBrewery.com design using our control panel. Nice setup! Kal

For heating up water for gelatin. It's a spare microwave we had in storage so might as well use it! When I set up this brewery I wanted 100% of the things I use to be in the brewery and not have to go steal from the kitchen or other places... Kal

A simple brewery upgrade: Installed a stainless steel magnetic knife rack (IKEA 602.386.45) for various tools! Kal

Yup! Which is why if you can pull it out at all, there's a big issue! Kal

+1 I do this when tightening: Screw down the nut to tighten, then pull and jiggle the wire (but not enough to pull it out of course even if it wants to), then screw down again. Repeat 2-3 times and you'll often find you can go tighter or it seems slightly loose after the jiggle. This helps...

Good points processhead! Yep - it's often a slippery slope! Kal

To close the loop a bit about heating times in case anyone's curious: A 5500W heating element such the one mentioned here will raise the temperature of 1 gallon of water by 1 degree Fahrenheit in approximately 1.6 seconds. Some real world examples: Heat 20 gallons of strike water from 70F to...

Cheap parts often have poorly mating connection points which can exacerbate the issue. You want parts that have parts that hold on to the wire firmly all around, not just in some spots. The heat is created when current flows through an area that is too small to handle the amount of current that...

I think you have too many layers here. The heatsinks should be directly attached to the SSRs with a *very* thin layer of heatsink compound between the two. Are you using heatsink compound? The surfaces should be perfectly flat (the SSR one will be, not sure about the big sheet of alu). I...

Can you take a couple of pics of what you mean by this? You don't need airflow across the SSRs, you need airflow across the heatsink(s). Kal

The s-line looks like nice stuff! Haven't used it myself but I know many who have built to my design are happy with it. Are you going to be brewing while others are sleeping? I find that I only run the fan on very low while heating/mashing/sparging and then only turn it up when it comes time...

Yup! And the cooler things run, the longer they last. It's why I use an oversized heatsink myself. Good luck! Kal

FYI - what's important is how hot the SSR is getting (not the heatsink). A cool heatsink doesn't mean that things are working well: It could be that you don't have good contact with the SSR so heat transfer is poor, causing the SSR to overheat. Kal

Strange. Before buying one myself, I confirmed with them too and the response was different. I asked if the Vortex series of fans suitable for exhausting kitchen hoods (ok to handle steam, which is condensing). I was told: I had a lot of back and forth with 2-3 different folks there...

All beers once fermented are acidic (pH lower than 7). Most beer will be between 4.0 and 4.6 (measured at room temperature) , with sour beers such as Lambics being even lower. Kal

Nice! The domes over the kettles makes me think of an old Frankenstein movie... like they're going to drop down and zap the kettles or something... ;) Kal

Belgian Super Saison! Spicy and refreshing, even though it's 7.9% ABV. Kal