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I sanitize my conical, plate chiller, and pre-chiller filter with heat. I use my RIMs tube to heat a few gallons of water in the fermenter and pump that through everything at 170F for 30 minutes, then everything is sealed. Fermenters are easy, use a sanitary air filter connected to the racking...

I bought a busing tote, you know, those gray plastic totes that busboys use in restaurants....It is great for hoses and anything else, I just toss stuff in there during brew day, easy to slide around the garage too.

The "rule of thumb" is 1 week for each .010 of OG, however, you want to make temp changes slower with lagers, that includes ramping up to the D-Rest, holding for a couple days, then slowly ramping down for the crash.

Pressure for carbonation, line length for rate of pour. 37F at 10 PSI =2.42 volumes of carbonation. However, force carbing your beer probably has the keg at a higher volume of CO2, this causes the beer in the line (10 psi/37F = 2.42) to come out of solution because 2.42 volumes serving pressure...

Growlers aren't made to hold much pressure, seems a bit risky

You've racked it off the yeast already so I would just give it a couple weeks now....you can sample it to see if you can taste any diacetyl (buttery, buttered popcorn like taste)

You could adjust your boil water additions to pH 6 or proportionately split your salt additions between all water additions.

Did you raise the temp into the 60's for a few days to do a diacetyl rest? Lager really needs some time for yeast clean-up, several weeks on the yeast.

Dump it

I would also suggest trying some nano mashes. Use a 1qt Mason jar for each run. Do one with 100g of your usual base malt. Do another with 95g base malt and 5g of Crystal 60 (95% base/5% crystal), do another with some other percentage of base and maybe munich or caramunich. To all of these, add...

No issues

Consider this: https://www.brewershardware.com/Tri-Clover-RIMS-Tube.html I just went from SS pipe DIY to this and love it...so easy to maintain and I just connect it to my MT port with the TC clamp....There is a thermowell part you can use on the top or use an adapter for your RTD

Temps look reasonable but ramping up at this point is fine, did you oxygenate the wort prior to pitching? You're going to need more than a couple more days. Dry hop at 4 or 5 gravity points above your expected FG.

These are pretty easy to use without a stand, I have a sturdy (stable) pitcher I keep close to place the filler in while I'm capping. I thoroughly flush with water then submerse in sanitizer working all the valves immediately after use.....sanitizer again before next use.

I agree, Belgians are all about the yeast character, don't add any spices, I'm doing a very similar recipe for a Westmalle Extra using the same yeast.

60, I brew 12 gallon batches about every 2 months...I also brew professionally so I don't brew a lot at home any more.

Boiling drives off undesirable volatiles, coagulates proteins, isomerizes hops, concentrates the wort and sanitizes the wort. The 1/2 life for DMS is 40 minutes. So you can boil as little or as long as you want, just know that those things listed above will vary based on time....it's up to you...

Are you doing BIAB? You should be splitting your salt additions between the mash and sparge (proportionately) and adjust your mash pH to 5.4ish, not adding them to the kettle. Salt additions in the kettle aren't doing anything for you, unless of course you are doing BIAB.

When you say recirculating wort pump do you mean something to recirculate in the mash tun or are you looking for a pump to move wort for other purposes? I use a 12VDC pump (~$15) to recirculate on my RIMs setup. I use a Chugger-style for my whirlpool and for moving wort through my plate chiller.