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Just because their design and intended use is to hold a vacuum, that does not automatically mean it won't hold a positive pressure as well. It won't be as good a a flip top, but it should work fine, as it obviously did for the OP

I regularly brew a Belgian IPA. The yeast and the hops certainly do clash. Some hops work better than others. I also back off a bit on the hops. I use half the amount as normal to dry hop, and back off on the bittering a little too. I'm finally reading Mitch Steele's IPA book, and that...

Well the most basic would be sugar plus water plus yeast. After that either 100% base malt or base malt plus a percentage of adjuncts. I find corn adds a bit of sweetness, so I'd steer clear of that if you want really dry. Rice is a better choice for a dry beer. I think most base malts have...

That's where I go. They are also called GTS-Welco. The big tank out back says Praxiar, and the street sign says GTS-Welco. Just past Dick's homecare. I'm not totally sure the cost, but most of it is for "labor", not the CO2. It only costs me ~$8 more to fill my 20 lb tank vs my 5 lb tank...

Taste it. If you are happy with the flavor, go ahead and move it to another secondary - assuming you want to let it go a little longer to make sure it is done fermenting. Or let it ride if you want more flavor from your additions

If you've already got the beer in secondary, leave it there until it clears, and then keg it. Usually there is enough dissolved CO2 in a beer in primary such that the act of transfering it releases enough of it to give you the CO2 blanket when you are done with the transfer. I like to get my...

I remembers going to small winery one Fall and we were in room that had a half dozen large fermenters going to town. There was enough CO2 being produced that it burned the eyes and nose a bit and sent my heart rate up. One carboy of beer is not going to be a problem

No. Mine is still wet with sanitizer (no rinse type). It is nice though to be able to purge the carboy with CO2. Secondary is a personal choice. The more time in contact with the yeast cake, the more it impacts the flavor. Some folks like this, others do not.

Some lager yeast and hop combinations are notorious for this, but I can't recall which they were. Some of the yeast descriptions do mention sulfur production, and combine this with certain hops, and you'll get plenty of sulfur, and your wife will ban you from brewing them. So, yes it is...

The Black Hops Unit of Centre County is having an informal get together Monday Dec 30th, largely to discuss plans for moving the club forward. Join the Facebook group for details

You could always bitter with Cascade or Belma, and use the Saaz for flavor and aroma. I'd be tempted to use a light hand and go with a blend of Saaz and Cascade for flavor and aroma. No more then 1/2 oz total for flavor, and 1/4 oz total for aroma.

If you want it dry (I'm assuming this means low FG) then mashing lower and longer will help (146-148 F for > 1 hr). Use 100% pilsner of pale malt, no Vienna, Munich and no crystal malts. Also pick a highly attenuating yeast. This will give you a dry beer - perhaps too dry. Try it and if too...

This IS the answer to your question. As all malts, even base malts, are kilned, you get varying amounts of non-metabolizable compounds produced. The darker the malt, the more of these present. Pilsner will have the least, then pale, vienna, munich, and up. A beer brewed with pilsner malt...

I routinely put 8 oz of wheat malt in many of my recipes and have no issues with clarity

I use step mashes. By changing the times of the various rests I can really tweak the body of the beer in whatever direction I like. With step mashing it is possible to make a highly fermentable wort that still has a fair bit of dextrins to provide body

If you drink it quicker than 6 months. For many beer styles freshness matters so buy them and the drink them, don't wait. I'd be tempted to go once a month and pick a different beer style to buy each time. Try to find that style from as many different countries (if possible) as you can...

I routinely use 0.5 lbs of wheat in 5 gal. batches for a range of beers. I wouldn't say that the flavors comes through much at all. Now body and perception, that is something else. I find it adds to the body and contributes a little "sweetness" to the final product. Not really sweet, more...

I'm in. same name. I've been teaching an online class ("traditional" style) for 10 yrs so this should be interesting. Besides beer knowledge I hope to maybe get some ideas for changes to my class.

All very true. We should not be so quick though to rule out worrying about HSA - in some instances. If one is planning a big brew that will be aging for a long time, actually any beer that will be aged or around for a while, then it might be worth trying to minimizing HSA. Most of the beer...

I use 5-6 layers of the aluminized bubble wrap to insulate my tun. In my Lowes it wasn't with the water heater insulation, it was up front past the aisles with fittings, but before the lumber. There was other sheet insulation there (for a garage door?), but I don't think it was with the rolls...