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So I just bottled my first AG batch yesterday. I used deathbrewer's method of stovetop tea bag, and wow would it have been a lot easier if I had a larger pot! Anyway, I bottled it yesterday and drank the last 8 oz from the priming bucket. I don't think it tasted too great. This was after...

When you are sparging with this method, would the runnings collect into your brewpot straight from the outflow of the hartford loop? I'm a bit confused with your flysparging method. Do you have a predetermined amount of sparge water in the large HLT, and eventually drain it all out into the kettle?

sorry, I put the wrong picture up there. It's supposed to be the view of the manifold with the inside drain tube connected to it So how do you only lose .03 gallons when you drain from the tun? The way you have the draining tube under the manifold makes it look like your manifold wouldn't be...

so I just brewed my second batch last night, and I had a couple of buddies come over to help me out. They haven't brewed at all before and I doubt they have even really looked into it. They seem to drag me into partying alot and unfortunately.... I got pretty smashed last night when we were...

Just so you know, another reason for sparging at 170 is to deactivate the enzymes converting starches to sugars.... this preserves the profile of your sugars from the mashing. Sometimes people may "mash out" which is ramping the temp to 170 after they have completed their mashing at the temps of...

I'm a huge noob too, but I have been researching the crap out of mashing, and the mash temp you use actually depends on what style of beer it is, or just on how sweet or dry you want your beer to be. General rule is to mash between 150 and 155/158 F. I'm not sure about the upper end of this...

wow you guys really ate that one up! I know exactly what it means.... some people let things slip on here! I found it in an older thread, but not the original.... what i want is the original so I can read the funny story behind it... apparently it's the greatest thread of all time... stunc ssa

Need some help for this weekend.... I'm gonna try to all grain nut brown on my stovetop.. here's my list pale malt 7 lbs crystal 80 2 lbs victory .5 lbs special b .5 lbs cascade 0.5 oz 7% 60 min willamette 1 oz 5% 5 min So the problem is.. i only have a 5 gal pot and another pot thats...

well crap. hopefully i can get some extra money soon then. money disappears about as soon as it is found, seeing as i'm a poor college student

Yea, I started searching for the meaning of all the acronyms flying around here, and EAC seems to be the beast of the bunch. I believe I've found out what it means. But in one thread there was a post by someone that I believe is a link to the original thread of the EAC.... it wouldn't let me...

does anyone agree with me when I say I would drink one for breakfast, 2 with lunch and 3 or 4 with dinner if it didn't get you drunk? I've thought it would be the best thing in the world to make a good NA beer, but I've never seen one

Yes, thanks alot! I was actualy wanting to start out by making a Nut brown. I was messing around with beerformulator.com and had a 5 gal recipe which used Pale Ale Malt 7.5 lb Crystal (80L) 2 lb Victory .25 lb Special B .25 lb and a target IBU of something around 24 using...

Awesome thanks for the help. I found one of those icing buckets from my grocery store just like you described, but it's 4.25 gal. A strange size, but it would work for a 3 gal batch or soemthing. I wanted to try a stove top all grain batch and sparging by using a large grain bag and just "tea...

yes, good advice. i wonder why more people don't use it? its got to be cheaper than starsan and iodophor

Can you remember if he said anything about how much chlorine is not good to have in your beer? What ppm of chlorine will affect how your beer turns out? I noticed that the water breakdown for some regions in England have a chlorine ppm of over 200 I think. I know this gives them a certain...

haha I agree with you on the hydrometer statement. thanks for the advice

Well it came in a brewer's best ingredient kit and it didn't have any brand markings on the yeast package. So there's no telling. I just assumed it was Muntons because that's the kind of extract that came with it. But, it probably is close to done, going on three weeks. The temp changes were...

I was wondering if someone could tell me how useful BeerFormulator.com | Home Brewing Recipe Calculator | Home Brewing Software is. I want to start doing small AG batches on my stovetop, and I found this to be an interesting recipe formulator. Any thoughts?

I just had a dry yeast packet that came with the ingredient pack. I rehydrated it like you're supposed to but didn't make a starter. And I only partially boiled then topped off with about 3 gallons when I put it into the primary. I just assumed agressively dumping 3 gallons of nonboiled water...

I think I may have just thought this idea up because I've been reading about making yeast starters, and the way some people write about it makes it sound as though they finish fermenting faster. But maybe this isn't true at all. I would still like to try smaller batches at first though just to...