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I don't have useable kegs unfortunately (have a few but haven't refurbished them yet). So the downside here is that it seems my biggest issue is present whether the beer is at 75 degrees or 95 degrees... giving it as good of a purge as possible and allowing it to warm (it'll ferment at 70 and...

Thanks for the reply, those are good things to think about. I was planning to transfer to a co2 purged fermenter (not liquid purged, though). Was thinking that plus the off-gassing would keep it from getting too much oxidative stress. I do have some smaller containers (old 19-liter water...

Hi everyone, I have a milk stout going now. I want to bottle half as is and transfer the other half to secondary and condition on cacao nibs (already soaking in vodka) and freshly toasted coconut. My apartment is ungodly hot, currently sitting at 95 degrees f (35c). Is it ok to leave it at...

Could you elaborate on this a bit? Reading up on sulfide definitely gets me nervous, but wiki just mentions it being formed from sulfate and sulfite. I add sulfate (like pretty much everyone) plus I use sulfite for both dechlorination and another small amount combined with ascorbic acid at...

I doubt 75 would pose a problem. Your batch is 5 gal? That's just slightly more than I added proportionately. I'd still start with 60, but if you feel like 75 I say go for it 🍻

I had a pale that attenuated like mad and I added 100g lactose to it (about 7.5 gal batch) after fermentation had finished. It worked like a charm and ended up being a great beer. I'd advise you to add like half of whatever you were thinking. Lactose can get very gross very fast in pale...

I think that's all that really matters. The chloramine test is mostly just boiling some tap water for a few min, and then smelling/tasting. Swiss groundwater FTW 🙂

Interesting! I thought almost all tap had chloramine. You're luckier than me. I'm in Taiwan and we definitely have chloramine in ours here in Taipei

That sounds about right from memory, but it may also have to do with your groundwater. However, from the way you're describing it it sounds like you're using RO water and building your water chemistry from scratch. For me, I already use sulfite for chloramine, so adding a tiny bit more at...

This has happened to me. The first time felt a little stupid. The second felt very stupid haha. That small amount of headspace solves the problem 🍻

I'm far from an expert, but to the best of my knowledge, yes you could introduce it earlier and it should still be in there working at bottling time assuming it hasn't all reacted by then. I have to say, though, I don't think dry hopping tends to introduce o2 to a large degree unless you're...

Forgot to include that I bottled with 'no head space' by which I mean roughly half an inch when cold. Basically to right around the base of of the head of the 600ml bottle

I ran out of co2 when bottling last year and managed to get three months before I finished the NEIPA. No color change, although it was refrigerated the whole time after it was carbed. Hop aroma and taste muted slightly with age, although that happens to every beer.

At bare minimum you'd need a co2 tank and a regulator, as well as some tubing. You could try filling something with co2 from fermentation, but it would likely be a difficult process full of troubleshooting. Ideally, you would also have a beer gun, but those are around 100 USD and you could try...

Well, I'm now 4 batches into my experiments with adding ascorbic acid at bottling and I have to say the results are very noticeable. It was not a conclusion I wanted to rush to, as I have already been using CO2 purging, slow fills with the beer gun, and almost no headspace; and those alone have...

Yeah my 586 beer is just about carbed up and the first bottle I tried was phenomenal. That hop could be the next Citra for sure. It's potent and fruity and stands on its own as a single hop. I absolutely love it so far and can't wait to try it in more styles. The Zappa beer started a bit too...

Yeah that makes a lot of sense. I often wish I wasn't super sensitive to hop oxidation for the same reason haha. So man imported great beers are just gross by the time I drink them over here. I have to research everyone's shipping methods in advance and stuff.

Not saying you're wrong, but I generally find all medium-to-highly hopped post-boil samples excessively bitter due to the hop bitterness. Beers with lots of roasted malt also have an off-putting bitterness from that post boil. How did you go about separating the bitter contributions of those...

Nottingham is probably the yeast I use most, so that's great info, thanks!

Thanks bro! These are Taihu Brewing's glasses. They're one of the most popular craft breweries in Taiwan and have amazing marketing and branding. These were roughly 1 week after bottling. They were conditioned at an extremely sub-optimal 85ish degrees for 5-6 days. I live in a rooftop...