Search results

Before use, I flush with water to get any dust out that may have settled, and then sanitize with starsan before putting beer through them. After use, I flush with hot water and then run starsan through as a final rinse. I let them drip drain for a bit before storage so there isn't standing...

It is for cosmetic improvement of beer clarity. Add it at 15 minutes before the end of the boil.

I think the problem was me not really understanding how to use gelatin correctly. I had been trying to follow the beersmith instructions: http://beersmith.com/blog/2008/12/30/fining-agents-improving-beer-clarity/ but I wasn't getting it fully dissolved - I probably even had mostly a slurry...

I use starsan for everything. I just treat containers at least 10 minutes before I need them and leave them upside down to let as much as possible drain out. If you want less foam, don't shake it inside the vessels, swirl it. All you really need for the sanitation to work is to wet all the...

All grain. Hops were in the boil at 10 mins left and in a hop bag that was pulled after flame out. The yeast strain for the two was also the same (WLP005).

Both are simple SMaSHs. Whirlfloc in the boil as usual, chilled to pitching temp in ~ 15 mins. OG=1.057 for one and 1.055 for the other. They were both 2 weeks in primary, cold crash for 24 hours, + gelatin, and 4 more days in the cold. I've done this about 6 times now, and previous ones all...

Just FYI, appears to be a myth: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/squeezing-grain-bag-bad-175179/index2.html#post2029310 I squeeze the grain bag and nothing bad seems to happen, just get a little extra wort. Looking forward to hearing how the SMaSH turns out. Those are the main reason I do...

I second the suggestion of trying a very plain recipe. Specifically, a SMaSH. If your SMaSH is clean and drinkable, your process is fine. Here is an example of what I mean: X lbs of a quality 2-row base malt to yield OG = 1.045-1.055 X grams of a noble hop to = 0.35 - 0.4 IBU/OG ratio...

I wrap in towels on the stove, over the burner, right after flame out. The flash point for cotton is not as low as people think. I wouldn't use the "nice" towels for this, and don't turn the burner back on while the pot is wrapped in towels or you definitely WILL have a problem. The first time...

Sunlight is bad for both yeast and hops. Relocate the vessel to someplace that gets zero sunlight, direct or indirect. Alternatively, you can set up some sort of shield, as others described. If you go that route, keep in mind the potential additional heat that the shield might transmit to your...

11L sounds plenty big for 1 gallon batches. I use a 6qt pot (mash) and a 9qt pot (boil). Mash is 2lbs grain + 2.5qts water in the 6qt pot for 60 minutes on the stove, flame off, kettle wrapped in a couple bath towels for insulation. Mash in at 164 = mash temp of ~152. After 60 mins, mash temp...

If you don't want to do any sparges, you can add the extra water at the end of the mash. Could heat it to a temp such that adding it brings you to a 170F final temp for a mash out. Lots of ways to deal with this I imagine. I always batch sparge, so not really knowledgeable about other ways.

First, its still kinda raw and that often tastes nasty no matter what. Let it finish, bottle it, age it, then try it. It WILL BE better. Second, high temps = fusel alcohol and that does have a bit of a rocket fuel twang to it. My experience is that age does help, but others disagree. YMMV...

Nothing, really. Assuming you started with 1 gallon, lets say you then lost 1/2 gallon. In that case, add 1/2 gallon to your total sparge volume next time and your next boil will finish pretty much right where you want it. You'll also get a bit of a bump in your efficiency from the extra goodies...

Same here, I used to taste everything at all stages. Here is what I learned: post-boil and cooled wort: sweet and kinda hoppy post-fermentation but before adding bottling sugar: not sweet anymore 2-3 weeks after bottle conditioning: beer!

Anything I brew with WLP300 (hef strain), WLP320 (hef strain), or WLP530 (abbey strain) does this. These strains seem to just get more foamy than others. Just search for blow-off tube and its a pretty simple solution. After the first couple days of the really active fermentation pass you can...

If you are already brewing on a larger scale, the list is probably only the following: 1) the smaller fermentation vessel. I use: http://www.naturalwanderings.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/Empty-apple-juice-jug.jpg from a local grocery store. If you don't like apple juice, then that...

+1 on thinking about headroom issues. For that reason I prefer making 1 gallon testers just completely at the 1-gallon size the whole way through. I use former apple juice jugs - the olde timey looking kind with a finger loop handle cast into the glass. If there is a Sprouts store nearby, this...

Tried this and it does increase what I'm calling the banana notes, so maybe what I'm thinking of is different than just the esters. I'll have to try this and see if it gives what I'm thinking of. Thanks all!

I like the banana notes that WLP300 gives but I also like the look of a nice clear beer. I've read that the banana notes literally comes from the yeast, but does that really mean the yeast gotta be floating around in the finished beer? So, can I have both banana notes and crystal clear beer...