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Regarding Kal's panel and RIMs or 240v... i originally built out the dual element 50amp panel and moved to RIMs later. I simply glued another SSR at the top and dropped in another contactor switch... already had a PID for "mash" that isn't used in Kal's design. Mine is now a bit customized...

actually not a bad idea... i'll go see if it'll fit in the washer later. It may not be the most economical way with no re-using of detergent and fitting only one. But def would be easy-peasy. Toss all the fittings/parts in the silverware container and slide the lid in the "dishes" spot...

if you're not planning on pulling the faucets, you can just slide some normal 1/2" ID silicon hose over them to jumper them. IMO, you really need to yank them, you can buy some jumpers that jumper the shanks to each other so you can recirc on the lines/shanks while you scrubby up the faucets in...

I've had good luck with smaller spray balls... 3/8" to 1/2" adapter and a camlock allows me to attach to my kettle lids. the chugger pump is able to push this smaller one where it failed on the normal 1/2" sized sprayball...

+1 for just using a window a/c unit... way more efficient. Trying to rig that fridge up will just end up with you sad that it's constantly running. Same price as that fridge grab a used window a/c unit and a cooler.

I got a 7g and have a keg washer... I have not found a good way to CIP this bucket. The hole/spout is not full 1/2" ID so draining is too slow. I thought you could just CIP it like normal and then dump the residual out when done since it has no cone/dump. If i try to spray-ball it through the...

I'd advise against anyone trying to run multiple circuits into a single enclosure... just seems like a bad idea unless you really know what you're doing. Even if it's a rented apartment and you're trying to make due with limited electrical... If Franknh is doing 15gallon batches he should...

also, wheels lock... which is nice, cuz i wheel it out to brew and wheel it back when done.

did the $60 amazon cart thing... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OR95X0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 it's plastic, so i cut out a hole for the mill and bolted it to the top. The legs were trimmed to the height of the bucket. Seems to work so far. I did bolt up a 2x4...

more on the weldless... for the money spent welded fittings really should be standard. also, they drill the recirc port on the side, which i hate... i'd prefer it to be a 45deg or straight out the front. Most people put their pots side-by-side so it just gets in the way. As to the insulation...

I don't think you're going to see quality isssues... just more limitations. Eg, you can't double batch quickly, or you can't do a larger split batch something, or can't some step mashes. As long as you keep the all grain aspect, the quality should be about the same. Just recipe formulation...

I went a different route... dual elements, and i just ran the power plug from the SSR to each outlet. Eg, through contactor to each "x" leg on the plug, then through the SSR to each "y" leg. That way the SSR toggles the 240v leg for both elements in unison. No reason to have two SSR's unless...

The main issue here is the element would be vertical.. so the minimum height you need for liquid would be the element height. Maybe you could bend one "sideways" and it'll work. Like Brett said.... the best part about inverting a keg is using that 2" opening as a bottom drain. I keep thinking...

like other have said... whirlpool fast, but when you're ready to run off let it settle for a second. Some say 15-30min, but really within minutes everything will settle out. I usually whirlpool while chilling at full speed, then when i'm ready to run off i kill it for a few minutes (literally...

For ease of cleaning i've been looking at kegs... slightly more expensive, but i feel like i could clean with a keg washer more easily. I already have an washer for corney kegs and fermenters... if yanking the 4" tri clamp leaves a hole big enough to invert and clean like a normal...

Not gonna lie.. I've used normal tap water and kept the batch over a period of time. But I've also done things with no starsan and not had an infection (dropping random adjuncts into the fermenter, pulling something out of a fermenter with my hands and not sanitizing the fermenter again)...

I don't think it really cares if it's wifi or hardwired ethernet... I haven't used their custom image, but I don't believe it actually cares much. You may have to manually setup the eth0 interface if it's not defaulted to "dhcp".

Sanitizing is a function of time and heat. If you have less time, you need more heat... less heat, you need longer time. To some "degree"... eg, you can't go 5 days at room temp and think anything is going to happen. The worry would be that the higher temp (boiling) could cause loss of aroma...

Ditto... usually only remake it every 3 months or so. But just wanted to throw that out there for people that may have issues fetching 5g of RO water, or justifying the $1 for water if they can't keep a 5gallon bucket of it around.

I went the route of bucket-to-bucket... i got a couple of 7gallon buckets. Original thought was to move the pump from one to the other. But later it seemed easier to just run them all through PBW first. Then when done drain and mix up saniclean and run them through again. It's actually...