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I went with 2" TC because the ULWD elements are usually ripple and it's very hard to wiggle those through a 1.5" port. That said, if you go with the elements that have a built-in plug they make them only for 1.5" TC. They cost more, roughly what it cost to get a normal element + adapter. My...

You could just wire teh float switch to an alarm... that would work fine.

An alternative here is to wire your SSR signal through these float switches; it's lower voltage. Eg, the signal from your PID goes through this switch toward the SSR that fires your element. That way a low water level will make it impossible for the element to fire until the float raises...

Not so much as sani can't reach areas the cleanser can, but that it can only reach areas that have been made avail by cleanser. Picture a dirty crud covered spoon... dipping that spoon in sani will only sanitize the outside parts it can touch. If there was bacterial in-between the spoon and...

If you can get it "stuck" again use that to then check back/forth while eyeballing the cage on the back. The only time I've seen that is when the fan blade is slightly bent and as it turns it comes into contact with the cage/shell. If that's not it, and the head is already off i'd fear...

I'd only grab the tric-clamp if you plan on going all-out. It'll get expensive fast. The plus is that you can fully disassemble and clean everything after every brew. It's not just that you can remove the valve/thermometer in seconds it's that you can remove them and clean all the surfaces...

Were you emptying the chiller into the pool... or recirculating pool water through the chiller? If recirc, I think you def have an issue with chlorinated water hitting the copper... i'd think it'd turn green almost instantly. If you're just dumping the waste water then i could see that taking...

Don't get me wrong, a grant with a float switch is great but i'd like the $8 setup with a manual valve and float that doesn't require any wiring or anymore hardware. That is, if it doesn't leak like mentioned earlier. I had toyed with a grant a while back to prevent compacting the grain bed...

hm... for $8, i think i'm going to order one of these and see how well it works. Would be nice to not have to watch the water level, if it can be easily adjusted and snap on with a camlock that'd be an easy win.

The filter on the auberin is a digital filter... it smooths out the fluctuations on the actual temp used as well as displayed. Not sure about the inkbird though. He also stated it turns on if it dips below 149; which makes me think maybe the PID functionality isn't working very well... it...

Hm... i'll have to go check, i had always pondered using a float auto sparge but didn't want to mess with the expense of the blichman, couldn't find any ss versions on ebay/mccaster. Didn't think to try ali... will give that a shot. Or not,i guess if they problematically leak then it's not...

Check your rate...also, not sure the environmental here; but the humidity and outside temp affects my boil off rate slightly. I usually check at 1/2 the boil time and make sure i'm on track; i'll adjust the boil up/down if i think i'm going to be off. I prefer to overshoot slightly rather...

I can't believe the auto sparge leaks... can't find any standard stainless valves to create our own. That looked like a really elegant solution to the problem of equalizing flow. The only other alternative is to setup a float switch. So far i've just been eyeballing it. If the flow on...

Curious if you ever made any headway here... i suspected either bad probe or a grounding issue with the rest of the panel.

Those RTD probes can read 1-2deg hot or cold, but usually always read the exact same temp. You'll want to calibrate in a known temp rage... usually with a known good therm. Those auberin pids usually have a "Pb" setting where you can account for the offset the probe is off. They can be up to...

I did this earlier in the year (automated propane to electric 50amp)... you'll love it. No more trips to refill propane tanks and with the 50amp setup i'm able to fire two 4500 elements and get to mash temp within 30 mins. The kettles stay cleaner as well... no scorch marks up the sides or...

Seems close enough to me... I usually drop it in some water and "calibrate" it to "0" then drop it in the fermenter and set a calibration to what my hydromter/refract had. That way as it ferments my upper and lower are as calibrated as they can be. Then i just watch for it to not change in...

ditto... there's code out for rpi to turn on the bluetooth and if you do a little programming you can make it fit your purpose. I use a rpi for dallas one wire temp probes and just added the bluetooth to scan for all the tilts (i use 2). I take and post it to an influx db (like cacti, or...