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For some of my customers here in the EU who want a steam condenser on larger systems I also recommend they can use multiple smaller units per kettle. In some cases that is more economical than moving up to a very large chamber with multiple nozzles. However once you have to add say 3 separate...

If you're boiling, and the condenser is underpowered, the steam will create enough pressure to escape through the lid. If you're just testing with water I would run the element at 100% and check the effluent temp and look for steam escaping. Depending on your inlet water temp and heating power...

In case anyone else tries it, confirmation is always nice to have... I've done testing with different condenser input port sizes. The only way I could get a 5/8" input (was actually 15mm) to work was to place a gasket between the kettle and the lid. With the gasket it did work, and the effluent...

Douglas here from Craft Hardware. This is a custom product welded in our shop in Germany. I declined orders to the US because of concerns about compatibility with US steam condensers. However, any steam condenser using a standard 1.5" Tri-Clamp tee should still work, along with the Tri-Clamp...

For your water input, you may want to watch out for water pressure loss from resistance in your feed line. There are pressure loss calculators online for sizing polyethylene kegerator lines, those might be useful to size your input. As previously mentioned one wants to maximize the input water...

Placing an air vent in the condenser output allows you to terminate the effluent tube underwater or run a longer exit tube, assuming there is enough head for the effluent to gravity drain out the condenser. Regarding the odor complaints: it would be interesting to see if the odor is trapped in...