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Forgot to post this earlier... I had to move the ground post on the door and this is what I came up with... .

I really hate cutting holes in this thing; it's a big pain in the arse! Finally! I think I'm ready for painting.

My cable tray was not flat (like the one shown on Kal's site) and the heat sink that I got from Auber wouldn't sit correctly. I can't find the thread now but I copied what someone did here by flattening the ridge of the cover plate with a hammer and grinding off some high spots on the enclosure...

I can certainly help you with the file... the one mistake I made was to try to match up the latch hole with the drawing... definitely no need to do that (I'll post a picture of the fix later). I should probably create a generic file that matches up with Kal's design. The engraved acrylic was...

Picking this project up again after summer got in the way... engraving and color fill turned out better than I'd hoped.

I was anxious to see how the color fill would look and whether or not it would bleed under the paper and onto the matte surface. I'd guess paint on the matte surface would be harder to clean up than on glossy acrylic. So far, so good. :)

Used the panel as a template for the holes in the enclosure; tried to keep the drill bit in the center of the circles (even used a punch) but had a hard time as you can see below. Gotta love the 22mm punch!

Actually, I did consider the button/led combos when I was laying things out but I decided I liked the look of Kal's design so I stuck with the separate switches and pilot lights.

One mistake on my part... I had been printing out my design at full size using tiled pdfs to make sure things fit properly on the front of the enclosure. Right before submitting my design to Ponoko, I decided to move everything 7mm to the left and 2mm up; it looked a little more balanced...

Ponoko.com acrylic panel delivered... I popped in a few components; they all fit perfectly.

BrewHardware.com HotPod kettle element enclosure with 12' of 10/3 SJEOOW cord.

Made some progress on the element holes for the HLT and boil kettle. I couldn't find the $60 step bit I bought 7 years ago so I used the step bit kit from harbor freight. I wasn't too sure they would be able to do the job but I was wrong... I used a little 3-in-one oil for lubricant and the HF...

Just a patina of rust... Stripped off 71 lbs (32 kg)... yes, I weighed it. Angle grinder with wire brush to clean it up...

@Deece - I've come across your panel a few times; very nice! Here's the stand I'm working with... built it about 7 years ago. I'll strip off the burners and other unnecessary items; will have to drill a few new holes in the kettles. .

I'm ready for a new project! I've found myself spending more and more time reading threads about electric brewing and have been inspired by the builds here. Time to pull the trigger and convert my old single-tier direct fired mash system. I brew in fits and starts and I'm hoping that...

OK, thanks; yes, definitely looks great. I'll have to do some research on dry-transfer. Was it much more than $70? That's about what it'll cost me in panel tags and I'd be willing to spend a little more to have it look nicer.

Trillium, I really like the clean labels on your control panel. How'd you do it? Silk screen?

Understood (I think). I was planning on running neutral to both spa panel and outlet. My pumps are 120V and will be attached to the control panel. It's not much of a "run" really. The spa panel will be mounted right next to the main panel and the outlet will be about 8 to 10 feet from the...

I just checked the spec sheet on this and found it contains the exact same Eaton GFCB250 breaker that I linked to in my original post... but this is cheaper and includes the spa panel! Bought it. I'll probably still install the spa panel as itsnotrequired suggested instead of pulling the...

Ah! OK, that makes sense. I'm a dummy; I was thinking that if I used a spa panel, the breaker that fed it also needed to be GFCI. Thanks!