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I have a 120V to 24V adapter/plug. The solar pump has a 24V DC power connector. I tested it by just plugging it into a wall outlet. For the next few months, I’ll use an inkbird-16 pid controller for my element and pump before completing a new CBPi controller for this system.

Initial water tests with the pump were fine. Definitely enough flow. My concern is reliability and longevity. I have a chugger pump that I’ll use as backup, but I’m liking the smaller footprint/ lighter weight of the solar pump so long as it works.

I just bought one of these and am interested in increasing the wattage this can handle (not even to 5500, I have a 2250w element i’d prefer to use on a 20amp circuit). I assume it is the plug from the wall, the wiring from the plug to the SSR, and the wiring from the SSR to the element outlet...

$250 for the basket. Extra $30 for the drain hooks and U bar. Per above, I’m not a fan of the U bar. J hooks would be another good option.

DIY Swing-up Basket Supports Per my prior post, the U bar is a hassle to setup for draining a mash basket IMHO. Most of today’s all-in-one systems have some sort of support welded to the kettle or attached to the rim. I didn’t want to weld and I didn’t want something that I’d have to attach...

Custom Half Mesh/Half Solid Basket I’ve read much on these forums about stuck recirculation when using a bag for the mash. Though throttling the speed of the pump will likely limit or eliminate this, I still decided to go with a basket. With a fully mesh basket, many have noted a drop in...

Custom Spike Kettle I ordered a custom 10gal kettle from Spike. - TC port for element - TC port for recirculation “out” - TC port for drain valve - 1/2” NPT port for temp probe - TC port for whirlpool at 6” from bottom (likely will not use this port for BIAB but added for future-proofing if...

Time to rebuild the brewery from the ground up. Life happens fast. With another kid now on the way, I’ve lost my “office”/brewery storage and am forced to downsize from my 3V propane-fired HERMS (Condo Brewing V1.. moment of silence) to a more accommodating eBIAB. You can see my previous setup...

Spring action!

Excellent idea. Looking forward to seeing your dream become reality. Cheers.

HLT and chugger pump sold. Other items still available.

Today I constructed the steel supports attached to my pot handles to hold my basket. I still want to “spring load” them so that they are more stable. They work well as-is, but if the basket bumps it too hard, the support may swing down against the side of the pot. By adding a spring, the support...

Hi all, I am trying to find a draft beer system that I can install in an awkward space that won’t fit a kegerator or fridge. I am thinking a glycol chiller (not just beer line cooling but keg and line chilling) is my only option. We recently bought a new house with some quirks. Next to our...

Do you have experience with this spray head? It looks like what I need, but I recall seeing mixed reviews on how well it works from another thread. I can’t find the thread at the moment. While the solar pump has enough flow for recirc, I’m wondering if it is enough for this type of spray head...

With active recirculation and the heating element running, the insulation isn’t necessary for the mash. However, running 110V and a relatively lower power element means longer time to heat to strike and boil temps. I’m not sure how much it’ll help that, but I’ll take whatever I can get to...

Basket was made by Arborfab The element is 2250W (20amp circuit req) and 9in long. I haven’t done a boil test yet. I wired up the temp probe yesterday and will have the rig run by my CraftBeerPi controller that I previously used for my 3V HERMS. I have a couple chugger pumps but needed to...

Very interested to see how this turns out. I have many of the same requirements and went the custom route (not quite the same level of bling - no shiny copper) ... the last of my parts arrived today (custom semi-mesh basket) and I am piecing my system together. I’m also considering a condenser...

I would guess you don’t have a complete seal where the diptube meets the valve/port. If air can get pulled into the valve port when the liquid level lowers, the siphon through the diptube will break. I’m assuming the diptube has NPT threads where you are connecting it to the port/valve. If so...

Also, I posted an overview of my fridge chiller here... https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=631203

I use the equivalent of the FTSs2 (cooling and heating). However, I built my own controller based on a RaspberryPi/CratBeerPi. You’ll see that I have a coil mounted in the side of my bucket. The coil is connected to a pump sitting in a glycol reservoir in the mini fridge below the fermenter...