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Good to know. I picked one of these up over the weekend to use as a fermentation chamber and had noticed the buzzer going off. Mine was actually pretty quiet, but still annoying - that won't be an issue anymore.

Thanks Gene! I brought 5 gallons of juice home last night (pasteurized, not from concentrate, no preservatives) and happened to have a packet of US-05, so that's what we went with. I did add 1 "tube" of concentrate as well. I think the plan is to try to catch it on the way down when it gets...

Hi Everyone, Does anybody have some thoughts on a basic recipe/approach for making something like Crispin Brut? My wife is a big fan, and I'd like to make something for her that is similar. A direct clone isn't the goal here, just something in that vein. We've tried a number of ciders...

Thanks for the suggestions guys. I flipped the breaker (firmly) back and forth a half dozen times, even though it has been switched on/off a handful of times already. Figured it was worth a shot. Regarding the wiring for the GFCI breaker, I can't get a picture right now b/c the wife and BIL...

Thanks Doug! The pump was continuously running during all of this, so no sudden starts. I tested resistance as suggested with my (cheap) meter that reads ~.9 ohms when I touch the test leads together. The boil element (4500w) reads 13.7 ohms, and the HLT element (5500w) reads 11.4 ohms. So...

Hi everyone, Initial tuning/testing went fairly well, but there were a few challenges. 1 has to do with the MyPin TA4 autotune being wonky, but that should be sorted out thanks to some other posts here which suggest manually setting the P & I values and turning off D. The slightly more...

Well, kind of. I contacted the guy at Kegworld.com who seems to know a lot about these, but he didn't have anything for the original Ventmatics. He gave me the contact email for the original inventor and suggested I ask him, but he never replied to my email. For the time being, I was able to...

Quick Update - Things are progressing. In Order: - Made a few small edits to the wiring diagram - Got the stand and kettles in place and did a little preliminary plumbing, including getting the element installed with HotPods (not pictured). - Installed a 50a 240v outlet with a 50a GFCI breaker...

This is an excellent resource. Thank you!

Good point. We have 200 amp main service, recently gone through just before we purchased the house. Should be good to go.

Awesome, thanks Doug! This is what I'll move forward with - goodies on the way :mug:

Here's the first crack at a wiring diagram - I strongly welcome any input or assistance any of you might have. As you can see, this was adapted and cobbled together from a few different P-J diagrams. A few quick things. The PIDs are not correct, but I'll update them once I purchase them and...

To be honest, I hadn't really thought about it. If it doesn't add a ton of complexity/cost, it sounds like a good idea from a safety standpoint. I still have plenty of work (and probably a lot of questions) regarding how to actually wire things. Not my forte, but I have some diagrams to go...

If you're still in town and looking, Charleville just opened a new joint that's pretty solid. Decent beer and little more modern menu that you find at most brewpubs. charlevillebeer.com

Hi everyone, I've been putting some thought/research into things. I'd sincerely appreciate some thoughts on components and, potentially, some help with components and wiring. Functionally, the plan is 50 amp service, 2 SS ULWD ripple elements (1 5500w in HLT, 1 4500w in Boil kettle). 2 pumps...

woops - just noticed you were measuring at room temp. Disregard my comment.

Thanks Doug - I should have been more clear. Yup, the 6/4 would run to an outlet, then the control panel would plug into the that. 2 separate entities, so to speak. With that being said, I appreciate the clarification regarding the control panel. I had a few basic 30a panel builds to work...

Either way I decide to handle the GFCI (spa panel or breaker itself), I think I'll just run the 6/4 wire since it's only about 15' of wire needed and it can be run directly through the floor joists - very straightforward. It needs to be rewired anyway, so I might as well go big as everyone...

Hmm, given that I was planning on switching to 4 wire anyway, that'd mean running new wire regardless. Also, 50 amp would allow for heating strike water and HLT water simultaneously, which I didn't really consider until searching a bit more. You've convinced me - 50a it is.

Good idea! It's probably only 12-15' of wire and would definitely make things tidier.